Question 1

1)  How do I align my 1911 Clamp On Scope Mount for scopes and the P11 Diopter?

Accepted Answer

Mount your scope solidly on the rail. Move the windage knob all the way left, then count the turns it takes to move it all the way right.
Return it left exactly one half of the full travel, that will be to dead center for the scope.
Follow the enclosed card pictorial directions. Turn the rear screw in till it just stops. Do not tighten!
Remove the bolt on your rifle. Set a target at the 25 or 50 yard mark.
Now, with your rifle in a rest or sandbagged, look down the bore and center it on the bullseye.
Move your head up to the scope and move the front of the mount until the crosshairs are on the bullseye.
Tignten the front screw and check for crosshair position while tightening. Do not tighten all the way.
Now tighten the rear bolt down. Check the scope again and tighten the front bolt.
Now tighten both bolts down dead tight. You should be at dead center windage.

Question 2

2) How do I sight in my Clamp On or Drill & Tap Scope Mount?

Accepted Answer

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The offset of the mount is a nominal 11/16", so make your Point of Aim at the edge of a 1" paster for the Clamp On Mount. The point of impact will be dead center on the 1" paster and it will remain so out to 1,000 yards.  If you can tell the difference beyond 200 yards, you're a much better shot than I am, Gunga Dihn.  Whatever scope you choose, remember that the lower and closer to the axis of the bore, the better.

Question 3

3) K31 and 1911 Offset mount illustration

Accepted Answer

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The attached rendering is the sight picture setup virtually all of us here at SP use for Swiss Rifles as well as for the M1D Garand Sniper.
The offset of the mount is 11/16", so leave it at exactly that POI at 100 yards and it will remain so out to 1,000 yards. No need to zero the scope on the bullseye. If you do, the POI will change the further out your target is.
If you can tell the difference beyond 200 yards, you're a much better shot than I am, Gunga Dihn.
I also use a fixed IOR Valdada 10 power on my zfk55, but that's an entirely different animal. Whichever scope you choose, remember that the lower and closer to the axis of the bore, the better.
In our experience, it's not usual for brass to hit your scope upon ejection, but if brass is touching your scope, then go to the hardware store and buy a small roll of the product 3M VHB. Make sure it's in black and about 1/2 inch wide. It's a double sided adhesive that's about 1/64 inch thick so it does provide a cushion. Wipe the lower quadrant closest to the receiver with alcohol, let it dry and then wipe again with a soft, clean cloth. Cut off two or 3 inches of the tape and apply it right to that area where you think the brass is touching. Rub a small amount of any kind of oil onto the surface of the tape and that will contaminate and deactivate the adhesive on the exposed side.
That will be the end of your problems.

Question 4

4) Waffen Fett and Automatterfett (Greases)

Accepted Answer

* This first section is from "Guisan"
=============================
The grease is used for three purposes being cleaning, lubricating and protecting and the last can be divided in normal use and storage.
To start with the cleaning first, before shooting the Swiss run a pad through the bore to clean out the grease there and from the bolt face, they do that with the help of a grease rod, that ones comes with a jag for a pad and a black grease brush.
Immediately after shooting they run that black brush with Automatenfett through the still hot bore, put some grease on the bolt face and leave it like that. After they get home they clean it all from the grease, get a bore rope or cleaning brush through the bore and after that they lube it all again with fresh grease that stays on till the next shooting match.
The grease dissolves the fouling and makes cleaning way more easy as using oil.
Lubricating during normal use is only done on few spots, the most important ones are the flat (or round with the older straight pulls) inside receiver sliding part of the operating rod and the tip of the operating rod where it enters the bolt sleeve groove, that area needs to be lubed well.
There should be no grease inside the bolt or at the outside but it won't hurt to use a tiny bit in the locking nut area.
Do not use too much grease, the manual reads for the K31 "battle lubricating"......NONE , so the above is only to make your rifle operate more smoothly with less wear, after all the shooting range is no battle field.
The protecting part is easy, Automatenfett can be used on bare metal to protect it against corrosion, use it limited especially on moving parts as we don't want sand to stick to these.
For storage, the -"Parkdienstschmierung" as they say there- it's easy also;
Barrel inside and outside, greased
Chamber, greased
Trigger assembly, inside bolt and hammer piece, NO grease (still the arsenals did not follow that rule that well as examples show)
Bare metal parts, greased
Blued parts, greased
The storage part is the reason why so many new owners of K31's in the USA think that they are in Cosmoline which is not the case, when they have been in storage in Swiss arsenals for a long time they are still well protected by the old yellow Waffenfett, the more recent ones suich as the stgw57 are well protected by black Automatenfett.
================================================
So your rifle came to you in the usual condition of the k31. Stock a bit beat up but with most of the metal finish intact and sharp, shiney lands and grooves, and you intend to keep it that way.
Stop and think about this. The rifle came to you in the condition in which the Swiss soldier and Armoury kept it for many years. Is it not then a reasonable assumption that you'd follow the same maintenance ritual that has kept it in that condition for so many years? Maybe, but the average American shooter believes strongly in all of the advertising hype and testimonials to a myriad of maintenance products deemed absolutely necessary to keep a rifle as pristine as possible, few of which are factually relevant to the k31 barrel.
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The Armoury and the well instructed Swiss soldier used a product called Waffenfett, or weapon grease, and later for the stgw57, Automattenfett . A close and reasonable approximation of the latter in the US is Lubriplate 930 cut with 15% Moly Paste.
The barrel is swabbed with 930, running a patch back and forth followed by a dry patch. At the end of the shooting session while the barrel is still hot or warm, the lubriplate is worked back into the barrel and left that way until the next shooting session when a dry patch is run back through removing the excess lubriplate. That's it. If carbon in the throat and chamber become an issue from firing reloads, use a good carbon remover such as Montana Extreme, but leave the bore alone. It is a fact that excessive bore cleaning with brushes can and will shorten your barrel life.
If, by shooting reloaded cartridges utilizing copper jacketed projectiles, your bore shows copper fouling, use a product such as WipeOut to remove it. This kind of a product fulfills it's task without continual scrubbing of the bore.
This may sound like an overly simple approach, and the typical US shooter is usually a ready recipient of industry marketing efforts and barrel maintenance, but use this logic. My 50+ year old rifle came to me with a truly amazing bore. Why would I not then follow the maintenance practices of the Armoury and Soldier that delivered it to me in this condition?

Question 5

5) What do I need for Reloading the 7.5x55 Cartridge?

Accepted Answer

A press, Forster (recommended) RCBS Rock Chucker or Dillon 550B
(If its RCBS get the Primer Option)
Dies for your caliber (RCBS, Redding, Hornady etc.)
Spray lubricant and case neck brush, or
Castor Oil (recommended) See "Reloading" FAQ
Wooden or plastic case block to hold 50 cases
Powder Dispenser (RCBS)
Powder scale
Case mouth Funnel
Powder Trickler
Manual Case Trimmer with collet for your caliber. Wilson (recommended)
or RCBS.
Reamer/Champfer for case mouths
Calipers to measure case lengths
Powder and Primers.
Sierra Reloading Manual (recommended)
If you shoot very much you really do need a Case Tumbler.
Dillon or Lyman are the best.
Case tumbler medium, walnut preferred.

Question 6

6) What is the process for reloading 7.5x55 cartridge?

Accepted Answer

A group is not three rounds. I consider a great 3 round group as " a fortuitous group."
A group is a 5 round minimum.
When we consider a particular set of load data as "proven", it means a 10 target minimum (typically 20 for us) with absolutely "repeatable" 5 round POI groups per target. That data is then assigned to that rifle by serial number in a small log book that each rifle here has.
If that data works well with another 4 or 5 rifles, then it's logged into our main Data Book for k31s.
 
My "data" on the SRDC site is a fraction of a highly condensed series of many thousands of rounds of data testing over a 35 years +/- period of time. All that means is that the data presented worked as written for a small group of load testing rifles. Those rifles were selected long ago for their consistent, proven performance.
ALL of the data was collected from rifles fired from a fixed "Accurite" firing device. Only the trigger finger touched the rifle at all, so the human equation was removed altogether.

My "platform" is the basis upon which all of my load data begins, and it's NOT that hard. You can analyze, illustrate, debate and tweak till the cows come home but it all ends with one single base. Your case preparation.
My credentials? 50 years of reloading and 32 of those devoted to the 7.5 Swiss cartridge.
 
 Do I have any magic? Absolutely not. Is there anything mysterious or technically difficult to understand about how I do it? Absolutely not. Have I varied one iota from my original "platform" in case preparation? Absolutely not.... and yet I see a supposed mystique surrounding the reloading for this cartridge evoking all kinds of semi confusing answers that are completely unnecessary.
 
I won't argue with anyone about presses or dies. This is what works for me, take it or leave it. Want to use a different press or die set? Go for it. After all these years and many thousands of successful rounds downrange, I'm not changing anything, however, advances in technology may now dictate other wise to you.
 
A) Whatever kind of press you have, using Redding Comp, RCBS dies or your own choice, run the ram all the way up. Turn your sizing/decapping die all the way down against the shellholder. Lower the ram and turn the die down another 1/2 turn or so, maybe even less, but make sure that when you run the ram back up the ram "cams over" at the top of the stroke. This is "full length sizing". I don't want to hear about all of the variables in die setting possibilities with all of the other cartridges you use. For the 7.5 Swiss, make your press cam-over at the top of the stroke to begin. Find a better way for youself later? Why not.
 
Neck sizing? Forget it. After very few times fired in a k31 your case won't be chambering anyway. Even if you do neck size, your case will have to be hand-fed into the chamber and indexed to exactly the same "o'clock" position every time to be effective. Not all k31 chambers are identical. I do it with a few of my commercial rifles with some success. 7.5 Swiss? Forget it. Its an exercise in futility that won't shade my loads anyway, and there are many local k31 owners that are now believers.
 
I've used a myriad of presses, both fixed and progressive over the years and the RCBS Rockchucker was my mainstay for load data development until the Dillon 550B came along. We now use a Forster almost exclusively for precision reloading.
Though I have a spread of other mfg's dies, Redding comp is all I use for the 7.5 Swiss. I currently have 6 sets of RCBS as well.
 
B) Set your decapper to the proper depth allowing just a bit of the tip to appear through the bottom of the shellholder. Screw it in too deeply and you'll bend the shaft and ruin a case. Lock the die into place.
 
1) Use a case tumbler or a washing machine to get your brass clean. If its a washing machine, put all the brass in a pillowcase, tie the top and wash them in hot water with a good dishwashing soap. Shake all the water out and let them dry overnight on a towel.
2) TTL.... Trim To Length. Our spec will be 2.179 or less. I suggest you don't trim much shorter than 2.160.
Ream and champfer the case mouths. If you don't have that little tool, buy one.
 
3) Lubing: Use a case lube/pad combo or the new sprays which I consider superior. Plain old Castor Oil works great too (Now preferred). If its a pad, use your fingers to spread the lube evenly over the surface of the pad and roll the cases completely. Use your finger and tip the case mouth down and roll that too. Don't get lube on the shoulders. This type of lube is non-compressible and can dent your case shoulders upon sizing. Use a mouth brush to get inside, but use it sparingly.
 
Spray: Using a cookie sheet, line it with aluminum foil and lay your cases down on their sides with all the mouths facing toward you. Holding the can at a 45 degree angle, spray from the rear of the cases toward the mouth allowing spray to enter the case mouths. Using the flat of your hand, roll the cases around and hit the case mouths once more very lightly. If it's to be Castor Oil, use it sparingly. It goes a long way.
Spray lube and Castor Oil are not of the non-compressible variety so you won't have a problem with the case shoulders as long as you don't overdo it.
 
4) Lightly coat the inside of your die with spray lube. Do NOT do this with paste lube. Put a case in the shell holder and run it up firmly but gently. If you feel any resistance, STOP! Lower the ram and check the depth of your decapper. Check to make sure the inside your die was actually polished at the factory. This is not at all unheard of. I've gotten 3 of these over the years and they will not allow you to run the case in.
Assuming your ram cammed-over at the top of the stroke, you should now have a properly sized case that will chamber without any resistance in your chamber.
Have to hit your bolthandle with the palm of your hand to get it to chamber? Projectile seating aside, it won't be because you didn't size your case correctly.
I've read plenty of rationale on chambering, and (without telling you how many Swiss rifles I have) None of mine chamber other than smoothly and easily, without rapping.
 
5) Clean your primer pockets with the appropriate tool. I use the small, formed wire brush in a plastic handle meant for this procedure. Seat your primers dead flush with the case base.
 
6) Projectile seating: It is not at all necessary to crimp for the 7.5 Swiss rifles. Crimping introduces a variable that you don't need. The grip of the case mouth on the bullet will not be identical every single time, thus, the unwanted variable.
To determine proper seat depth for any given projectile, keep in mind that the measurement is only valid when the contact of the bullet's ogive and the lands/grooves is determined.

Your manual says OAL is 3.020?... maybe for that bullet that they used, but only for that bullet profile, not all others. Projectile profiles vary from mfg to mfg. So how do you do it?
There are any number of ways, but I've always used the same methodology. Take a sized, empty and unprimed, uncharged case, start a bullet into the case mouth leaving it protruding further than is apparently correct. Place it in the rifle's chamber by hand, ease the bolt into full battery and "smartly" eject it. Measure that OAL and seat it 2 to 4 thousandths deeper. This is a good start. Later, when you've become more deeply involved in data gathering, you may want to play with seat depths to find the sweet spot for your cartridge. I have specifics I use regularly. Bear in mind that the k31  typically prefers the ogive very close to the lands.
Yes, there are other ways. If you like your way better .......use it.

Once you determine your chambered OAL for that bullet, screw your seating die down until the mouth of an empty case stops the descent and back it out a full turn. Lock the die in place and back out the seater.
 
That method is only going to work for one bullet profile, and it its a hollow point its not going to be accurate anway since not all meplats are the same even in the same box. Your bullet seater should be indexed behind the tip ahead of the ogive, not on the tip of the bullet. A Sierra 175 MK is not going to be the same as a Berger 175 VLD at all. Both should index on an area ahead of the ogive, but not all ogives are the same distance from either the case mouth or the bullet tip. If you use just the tip you're going to have two completely different freebores for the same caliber, weight and charge with likely two different results.
 
Now measure it and decide how far off the lands you want to begin. Note that figure and begin working out your load, adjusting seat depth as you go. But remember that was only for that bullet profile. Change profiles and you're back to square one.
Find load data that might be in a trusted manual or proven data from the board. Always begin with a lesser load even if the data you find "appears" to be proven.
 
"Stand up and shoot it like a man!"
Only if Jeff Cooper is watching, otherwise use a bench rest when developing your load data. Use the same rest or bagging methodology every time you shoot. Remove all variables from your data gathering..... and that's the secret, gents. Consistency. Consistency.
 
Ok, the final step I consider important if you're striving to squeeze every ounce of accuracy out of your Swiss rifles is.............. www.swissrifles.com/sr/pierre/accurizing.html
Does it work? You'd have to ask those who have used the methodology, and there are a lot of them now. I have read a few comments about how it "didn't work for me. A waste of time". It probably was, for those folks. They didn't follow the process correctly and most likely were shooting unproven loads with improperly sized cases or stocks with an unnoticed, inherent problem. Most of my rifles are accurized, and every one of them improved forthwith.
 
To wrap this up, I advise that you remove every single variable that you can think of. When reloading, never vary from your case prep (hopefully successful) formula. When shooting for load data, never vary from your shooting stance/position. Record results from every single target you print. Be careful and I wish you success.
P
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There are a lot of ways to get to the same positive end result. This is one that worked for for me with Swiss Rifles. If you find better ways, use them, but be careful. Use manufacturers books and read the cautions and limits.
I should add that we now use Redding Competition bushing dies for almost everything including 7.5 Swiss.
See other Reloading Notes here in the FAQ,
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Question 7

7) How do I sight in a Diopter?

Accepted Answer

Sight in:
1) Get into shooting position with unloaded rifle. Everything you will need to shoot should be within arms reach.
Do not get up or move your elbows too much.
2) Find the best place for your cheek on the stock. You should be fairly close to the safety ring. I use my thumb
as a spacer between the ring and my nose to get the same cheek position time after time. I of course lower my
thumb before firing.
3) Center the front sight hood in rear sight. Should have equal amount of space all around the outside of the front side hood
4) Aim at target, center it in the middle of your front sight ring or on top of the front sight post with a slight gap
between the top of the post and the bottom of the target.
5) You should always be focusing on the front sight, not the target.
6) Dry fire a couple times.
7) Move to the third smallest hole available on the rear diopter sight.
8 ) See how sharp the front post or aperture is.
9) Compare the sharpness of the front sight using smaller and larger rear diopter hole sizes. Look for the clearest
possible setting for the light conditions you have that day.
10) Now you can load the rifle! I just saved you a lot of money in ammo.
11) Keep a sheet of paper and a pencil handy. Keep track of every shot.
12) First shot is a fouler. Write:"1- F", and its clock position.
13) Fire three more shots and write down their clock positions.
14) Estimate where the center of shots 2, 3 and 4 is and correct accordingly. Remember each click is MOA.
15) Repeat from 13 until youre sighted in.
Notes: All of the following are more noticeable as the shooting distance increases.
1) Expect your point of impact to change during the course of the day as the sun changes it position relative to the target.
2) If you change aperture size after sight-in, you most likely will have re-sight it again.
3) Changes in cheek position WILL affect your sighting.
4) Changes in body positions WILL affect you sighting.
5) Do not mix ammo, I always try to use the same lot of ammo in a session, even with GP11.

Question 8

8) What loads are safe for my reciever?

Accepted Answer

I've been working with Swiss rifles since the late 60s. I've been developing load data since 19673 as the manuals then extant were erroneous in their representaion of both pressures and strength of the receivers. For whatever reason, the manual publishers were basing all of their load data on the Schmidt Rubin model 1889. The GP11 cartridge was the issue cartridge for the Schmidt Rubin beginning with the 1911sr. This is the same cartridge issued today for the PE57 autoloader and the predecessors, 1911, k11, k31 and the Sniper zfk3155.
Does it not then stand to reason that the 1911 and k31, being designed to fire the same cartridge as the PE57, would have receivers of a strength equal to the modern autoloader? Would it surprise you to know that the factory in Bern offered the k31 in 7.5 Swiss, .308, 30/06 and 300 Winchester Magnum? It still is. You can buy one today from the Hammerli facility. But I digress.
Early reloading manuals assumed that the bolts on the 1911s, k11s and k31s were identical to the 1889. Not so at all. The 1889 could NOT stand the pressures developed by the GP11 and therefore the publishers relegated all data and warnings to all of the Schmidt Rubins! Gross error! I dioscoverd this error very early on, called Bern, spoke to an armourer, explained my theory, he agreed and I began a lifelong search for the commercial accuracy loads for the SRs. BTW......... I found it. In fact a number of them.
The locking lugs on the earlier SRs were at the back of the bolt itself. This meant that the case head of the cartridge was largely unsupported, but with the advent of the 1911 the lugs were moved midway up the bolt proper and provided more than enough support for the case head. The 1911 receiver was also substantially stroner than the 1889, in fact strong enough to allow importers in the late 70s/early 80s to convert a large number of imported 1911s to .308. CUP for the 7.5 is around 42,000. The .308 is 50,000+, so that should also tell you that the 1911 receiver/bolt combo is plenty strong.
The k31 amd the zfk3155 have the strongest of the bolt/receiver combinations. The locking lugs were moved forward right to the head of the bolt. The 30-06 and 300 winmag are no problem for this rifle. Enough preface.
The dies.
I was asked by Lee Ertsmann to help  develop a forum for these rifles about 4 years ago (1999). I spent a tremendous amount of time educating new SR owners who had not a clue as to proper load data or accurizing. (I won't get into the accurizing thing at this point) Having been supplied with load data, a number of these folks began reloading the caliber. Wihin one month I had 3 incidents of "gas blow-by" from those usnig Lee 7.5 Swiss dies. The bolt of the SR provides a channel directly to the rear, allowing blow-by gasses to "kiss" the face of the shooter! Three more incidents followed with another 4 months. FAR too many for coincidence.
Lee makes an excellent die. I've also been told that the circumstances surrounding the SRs don't happen with all Lee 7.5 dies. I don't know. I also have never had an interest in testing these dies. There's no point. I do assume that there is an inherent problem with using the die for this caliber. I can tell you that my son is not allowed to use Lee dies for reloading his 7.5 Swiss brass. In the past 5 years not one single incident of blow-by has ever been reported to me on swissrifles.com involving RCBS 7.5, Redding Comp or Hornady dies. There are others that work well too. Take your pick.
I can't tell you how many thousands of rounds in that caliber I've reloaded in 65 years or so, but its a bunch. Never one single failure involving the die has ocurred.
I'm loathe to retype the whole thing here as its quite long, but please do read the reloading for the 7.5 Swiss page before proceeding with reloading for your rifle. It will give you needed insight into the whys and wherefores.
Thank you..... Pierre St.Marie
*NOTE: Its been at least 4 years since I've heard about a Lee problem with this caliber. Maybe it's solved.

Question 9

9) What Projectiles and Powders should I begin with?

Accepted Answer

Note: Swiss Products cannot be held responsible for the use of posted load data.
This data is applicable only to the rifles noted and tested. You're may vary, so always approach unknown load data with caution.
 
"The results listed below are all completely dependent on correct case preparation. If you have not followed that archive on case prep, your results are not going to be the same as we achieved."
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These are pages of load data that I've compiled over a lot of years. These represent many thousands of round downrange. These are the end results of the best performers over that time span using the "projectiles and powders of the day."
ALWAYS begin with the data in a manual and work your way up.
I will later add our latest successful projectile and powder combinations. I will also add the ICP (Impact Coated Projectile) processes we now use.
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"The results listed below are all completely dependent on correct case preparation. If you have not followed that archive on case prep, your results are not going to be the same as we achieved."
 
Pierre's 7.5x55 Reloading Data
I don't feel comfortable "recommending" load data for rifles of which I have no personal knowledge, therefore, this is my disclaimer prior to
posting my own load data. Particularly if you are a reloading novice, this is important. Your k31 is not a new rifle. These powders/projectiles are! Not
knowing the particulars of your rifle, I can only say how these loads performed in MY OWN RIFLES! They may not perform the same in yours. I can say
that these loads performed slightly differently in each of the three k31s concerned. This would be because not all barrels are absolutely identical. You
MUST approach these loads with caution, approaching them in .5g increments. We all love these old SRs, but no one knows what stresses your action
may have sustained before you got it, therefore accept the fact that the loads I'll be posting worked for me. They may or may not work for you. You
experienced reloaders know exactly what all this means. Consider your own rifle and be safe! Regards
All rounds were fired from an "Accurite" shooting device that accepts the entire weapon, allows natural recoil and "contained muzzle jump". Micrometer
windage/elevation & "cant" adjustments are used. All shots were 5rd groups from 100yds. Consider temperatures were variable, which may have an
effect on your rifle's performance. No extremes, however.
Three k31s were used and categorized by their mfg date. Extensive reloading narrowed the projectiles down to two, which worked the best in THESE
three rifles. The 165g is a remington .30cal PSPCL. A jacketed soft nosed projectile with flat sidewalls and flat base. The second projectile is a 173g
U.S. Military issue "pulled" fmjspbt. I reiterate, the following loads performed well in THESE THREE RIFLES. You must approach these loads
responsibly based on YOUR knowledge of YOUR rifle.
All three k31s are pristine samples of their genera.
k31 #1 mfg'd 1937

N203......40.5g.........1.69"
BLC2......39g...........1.75"
3031......36g...........1.8"
414.......43g...........1.56"
4064......37g...........1.0"
4831......47g...........1.13
173g
414.......43g...........1.10
4064......39............ .97"
BLC2......40g............1.59
4350......38.5g..........1.76
3031......35.............1.97
k31#2 mfg date 1946
165g
3031......36.2g...........1.85"
4064......37g.............1.0"
414.......43.1g...........1.65"
4831......47g.............1.23"
173g
414.......43..............1.15"
BLC2......40g.............1.83"
4064......39..............0.91"
4350......38.1g...........1.94"
3031......35..............1.75
k31#3 mfg date 1955
165g
N203......40g..............1.98"
3031......36g..............1.87
BLC2......39.1g............1.40"
2520......39...............1.55"
4831......47g..............1.30"
414.......42...............1.57
4064......37g..............1.0"
173g
4350......38...............1.99"
3031......35g..............1.85
4064......39g..............0.88"
BLC2......40g..............1.65"
414.......43g..............1.10"
FURTHER TESTING
All rounds fired from an Accurite Rest, all groups consist of two five rd groups.
Brass, Norma, Projectile- 165g Remington SPLSC & 173g fmjbt, "pulled". Primers, CCI-LR. Brass TTL & champfered inside/outside.
165g
4831SC........45g........1.65"
IMR3031.......35g........1.30"
IMR3031.......36g......... .70"
173g fmjbt
4831SC........48g......... .88"
IMR3031.......34g......... .90" in a perfect vertical string.
IMR3031.......35g......... .44" & 1 flyer .82" out
(second group 3031)....... .71 & 1 flyer .75" out
All BLC2 loads exceeded 2"
The above loads were the result of EXTREME CARE of each barrel after each group.( brass cleaning etc) Your rifle may or may not show similar taste
for these loads, and there are certainly a myriad of other loads that may prove better performers in YOUR rifle. Reload Safely! And good luck!!
I never recommend bullet depth seating as it varies slightly from rifle to rifle, (and a projectile jammed tight against the lands/grooves CAN make differences in chamber pressures, although usually not dangerously. This will definitely affect projectile performance.) Partially seat a projectile in an EMPTY UNPRIMED cartridge and ease the bolt forward to full lock. \
 
Eject the whole works, measure it with a micrometer and back it off another .019 to .021 or whatever your particular reloading book recommends. The "lyman casting handbook" is a good source of odd reloading info! No, I did not i/o true the case mouths. I developed these loads based on the recommended TTL and used materials & methods allowing me to shoot often without hours of technical fooling around with components. One thing I should have included is the primers were CCI. Sometimes you hear that magnum primers work better with some powders that have burn rates that somehow don't perform as well as you'd expect. This happens to be true, but you need to do those experiments with care. Be careful.
Pierre

Question 10

10) 7.5x55 Load Data Including RE17 Data by Pierre St. Marie

Accepted Answer

"The results listed below are all completely dependent on correct case preparation. If you have not followed that archive on case prep, your results are not going to be the same as we achieved."
 
All load data printed herein should be approached with extreme caution. The rifles concerned, despite being very strong, are 50 years old. This data has all performed very well in the 1911 and k31 Schmidt Rubins. All of them printed groups of less than 2" at 100yds, and the majority were 1.5" and 1" or less.
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Two loads that tested out exceptionally well are:
Berger VLD 168gr........47.4gr of IMR4320
Berger VLD 175gr........45.8gr of 4350
The last one consistently beat the GP11 for me at 300 to 500 yards. All three are winning loads, all things being equal.
"Equal" = ALL brass identical TTL.
ALL brass full length sized.
Seat depths on the VLDs are
exactly that of the GP11s @ 3.060
Sierra seat depth is 2.890
Seat depths are critical for consistency.
If you intend that these, or any loads, prove themselves, absolute consistency in every aspect of your loading procedures is mandatory.
Not one iota of variance.
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The following loads have all been found to be quite accurate.
Remington PSPCL 165gr:
N203...................40.5gr
BLC2..................39gr
3031....................36gr
414......................43gr
4064....................37gr
4831....................47gr
2520....................39gr

Military Ball 173gr "pulled":
414.......................43gr
4064.....................39gr
3031.....................35gr
4350.....................38.1gr
BLC2...................40gr
Sierra Match king 168gr:
4064.....................43.9gr
4350.....................46.8gr

Sierra Match king 175gr:
4064......................42gr
4350......................45.8gr

Sierra 165gr HP/BT:
4320......................44gr
4064......................43.5

Berger VLD168gr:
4895......................44gr
Nominal seat depths for the 1911:
3.060"
Nominal seat depths for the k31:
2.890"
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Addendum: Here are some recent additions to the list.
1. Bullet: Norma 146gr. FJPBT
Powder: Vit. N140 49grs.
Primer: CCI 200
Case: RWS
2. Bullet: Sierra 165gr. SBT (2145)
Powder: 4350 ACCU 51.6grs.
Primer: CCI 200
Case: Norma
3. Bullet: Hornady 168gr. BTHP (3050)
Powder: 47 grs. ROT R903
Primer: CCI BR2
Case: Norma
4. Bullet: Berger 168gr. HPBT/Moly
Powder: DuPont IMR-4320 47.4grs.
Primer: CCI 200
Case: RWS
5. Bullet: Lapua D-46 185 gr. (.308)
Powder: Vit. N160 50 grs.
Primer: Norma LR
Case: Norma
6. Bullet: Hornady 190gr BTHP(3080)
Powder: Vit. N160 51.5grs.
Primer: CCI 200
Case: Norma
7. Bullet: Hornady 190gr BTHP (3080)
Powder: ROT R907 46grs.
Primer: RWS 5341
Case: Norma
8. RELODER17
Bullet:175gr Berger Vld, Hornady 175 ELD or 175gr Sierre Match KIng
Assuming you have followed all of the case preparation instructions, this beginning point for use of the 175 grain projectile and Reloder17 may put you exactly where you want to be for minute of angle shooting.
Begin at 48 grains of Reloder17 and work your way toward 50.1 grains in 1/4 grain increments..
__________________

Question 11

11) How do I "refurbish" my swiss stock?"

Accepted Answer

Beech Stocks.
The original is Shellaq. Use alcohol to remove the old Shellaq
Do not immerse the stock or get the interior wood overly wet.
Rub Scrub stock hard and quickly with warm soapy water and a scrub brush.
Rub dry immediately with a Terry towel and let stand overnight.
Use the directional steamer to raise the dents..
Apply new coats of clear Shellaq. Some Shellaqs have a yellow or red tinge. That's ok.
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Walnut Stocks
Do not immerse the stock or get the interior wood overly wet.
Rub Scrub stock hard and quickly with warm soapy and a scrub brush.
Rub dry with a Terry towel and let stand overnight.
Use the directional steamer to raise the dents.
A) Use 000 Copper Wool to smooth the surfaces.
Hand rub with raw linseed oil until you have a warm smooth finish.
This may take a number of coats.
B) Sanding is less preferable unless you're going for a new rifle appearance.
Sand smooth but use a wood block taking care not to round any of the
edges or the fingergrooves. Do not overly sand the Cartouche.
Rub vigorously with a rough Terry towel.
Apply a coat of Tung Oil with a soft cloth and let dry. Lightly rub down
with 000 Copper Wool. Repeat this process 6 to 10 times until you have
a deep, warm glow to the wood. If you want a glossier finish, don't Copper
Wool the last coat. I prefer the satin look, so I do use it on the final coat.
The original Swiss stock finish recipies...

From the Landesmuseum in Zürich.
For walnut, clean the stock first;
30 % Turpentine
30 % Linseed oil
30 % Fruit (wine) vinegar
10 % Bees wax
Fill the mix in a plastic bottle and put that one in hot water (60 degrees celcius) for 15 minutes till the bees wax has dissolved in the mix, apply with a piece of cloth.
And for beech;
45 % Denatured alcohol (high percentage 95%)
45 % Shellac flakes
10 % Parafin-oil (in the US called kerosene ?? not sure there).
Get the old shellac layer off with help of fine steelwool and alcohol (95% ).
Apply with a piece of cloth starting at the top;

Guisan.

Question 12

12) Further notes on advanced Reloading #1

Accepted Answer

This is a touchy subject in some circles, so I'll do my best to avoid any coloration of the history.
I've been working with Swiss rifles since the late 50s. I've been developing load data since 1963 as the manuals then extant were erroneous in their representation of both pressures and strength of the receivers. For whatever reason, the manual publishers were basing all of their load data on the Schmidt Rubin model 1889. The GP11 cartridge was the issue cartridge for the Schmidt Rubin beginning with the 1911sr. This is the same cartridge issued today for the PE57 autoloader and the predecessors, 1911, k11, k31 and the Sniper zfk3155.
Does it not then stand to reason that the 1911 and k31, being designed to fire the same cartridge as the PE57, would have receivers of a strength equal to the modern autoloader? Would it surprise you to know that the factory in Bern offered the k31 in 7.5 Swiss, .308, 30/06 and 300 Winchester Magnum? It still is. You can buy one today from the Hammerli facility. But I digress.
Early reloading manuals assumed that the bolts on the 1911s, k11s and k31s were identical to the 1889. Not so at all. The 1889 could NOT stand the pressures developed by the GP11 and therefore the publishers relegated all data and warnings to all of the Schmidt Rubins! Gross error! I discovered this error very early on, called Bern, spoke to an armourer, explained my theory, he agreed and I began a lifelong search for the commercial accuracy loads for the SRs. BTW......... I found it. In fact a number of them.
The locking lugs on the earlier SRs were at the back of the bolt itself. This meant that the case head of the cartridge was largely unsupported, but with the advent of the 1911 the lugs were moved midway up the bolt proper and provided more than enough support for the case head. The 1911 receiver was also substantially stronger than the 1889, in fact strong enough to allow importers in the late 70s/early 80s to convert a large number of imported 1911s to .308. CUP for the 7.5 is around 42,000. The .308 is 50,000+, so that should also tell you that the 1911 receiver/bolt combo is plenty strong.
The k31 amd the zfk3155 have the strongest of the bolt/receiver combinations. The locking lugs were moved forward right to the head of the bolt. The 30-06 and 300 winmag are no problem for this rifle. Enough preface.
The dies.
I was asked to develop a forum for these rifles about 4 years ago (1999). I spent a tremendous amount of time educating new SR owners who had not a clue as to proper load data or accurizing. (I won't get into the accurizing thing at this point) Having been supplied with load data, a number of these folks began reloading the caliber. Within one month I had 3 incidents of "gas blow-by" from those using Lee 7.5 Swiss dies. The bolt of the SR provides a channel directly to the rear, allowing blow-by gasses to "kiss" the face of the shooter! Three more incidents followed with another 4 months. FAR too many for coincidence.
Lee makes an excellent die. I've also been told that the circumstances surrounding the SRs don't happen with all Lee 7.5 dies. I don't know. I also have never had an interest in testing these dies. There's no point. I do assume that there is an inherent problem with using the die for this caliber. I can tell you that my son is not allowed to use Lee dies for reloading his 7.5 Swiss brass. In the past 5 years not one single incident of blow-by has ever been reported to me on swissrifles.com involving RCBS 7.5, Redding Comp or Hornady dies. There are others that work well too. Take your pick.
I can't tell you how many thousands of rounds in that caliber I've reloaded in 55 years or so, but its a bunch. Never one single failure involving the die has occurred.
I'm loathe to retype the whole thing here as its quite long, but please do read the reloading for the 7.5 Swiss page before proceeding with reloading for your rifle. It will give you needed insight into the whys and wherefores.
Thank you..... Pierre St.Marie
*NOTE: Its been at least 4 years since I've heard about a Lee problem with this caliber. Maybe it's solved. Latigo *
__________________
In the "standard die" sets, other than the user's perceived quality differences, no difference between Reddidndg and RCBS. Both are for the k31 and the G11.
But when it comes to the Precision and Competition dies, only the user's track record is important, and for us, Redding has no competition.
Redding: Redding Competition Bushing 3-Die Neck Sizer Set 6.5 - MPN: 58446
This is the best from RCBS RCBS Gold Medal Match Series Bushing 2-Die Set 224 - MPN: 11205
"Nothing is cast in stone" with dies. Your own end result is all that's important no matter whose dies they are.
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In case you missed this one:
Competition Bushing Sizing Die -- With this die, the cartridge case is completely supported and aligned with the sizing bushing before the sizing process begins. As the sizing process starts, the cartridge case remains supported in the tightly chambered sliding sleeve as it moves upward while the resizing bushing self centers on the case neck. The decapping rod is maintained in precise alignment by using the internal parts of the die as a linear support much like a firing pin. While the micrometer adjustment of the bushing position delivers precise control to the desired amount of the neck length to be sized. (Bushings are sold separately)
•The Body Die -- is designed to full length resize the case body only and bump the shoulder position for proper chambering without disturbing the case neck. It is intended for use only to resize cases which have become increasingly difficult to chamber after repeated firing and neck sizing.
•Competition Seating Die -- The bullet guide to seating stem fit is so precise that the seating stem can actually be demonstrated to float on a column of air. The micrometer is calibrated in .001" increments. It also has a zero set feature that allows you to zero the micrometer to your rifle or favorite seating depth.
Add the Coaxial press system and you have the epitome of a reloading setup. ....... and I believe there might be one or two other press Mfg's that make a coax press. I'm just old and set in my ways.
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Now that you've had a chance to read about the well lubricated and smooth running gears of potential Precision Reloading, (there are more factors involved, but..) let's throw a monkey wrench into the whole thing.
Many years ago I had a friend and two aquaintances that were bench resters. All of their reloading was done at their bench at matches.
I'm sure you've seen the hand loading kits with the decapper, primer inserter, projectile seater etc. and......... a small yellow dipper? I have a Lyman and one other I can't remember, both in our caliber but have never used them.
He would take a primed, prep'd case, the desired, proven projectile profile and weight, a small wide mouthed canniser of the required powder, a yellow dipper which he had filed down to the specific grain volume for the desired powder weight, dip the yellow dipper into the cannister and, with a credit card...... flick it across the top of the dipper and dump the powder into his case. He then used his hand held projectile seater and proceeded to shoot his 500 or 1,000 yard groups downrange.
Would you like to guess as to his results? ........ so.......... Are you going to reload with a dipper and a credit card? LOL
Only if you have an awful lot of spare hours for that methodology and, needless to say, his case prep did involve both inside and outside case mouth truing. I'll get into that later, and we actually do the inside truing. Our method produces very close to bench rest load results but is much faster in volume.
I read a lot about a k31 rifle that's capable of MOA shooting, and the truth is that most of them are. It's not just the projectile and powder selection. The case prep and neck tension are equally important, but not often worked on. Your SD being very low is very important. Coaxial alignment or the case base, neck and projectile are also a very crucial part of the formula.
Latigo reloads on a Forster press, and only on a Forster when he wants absolute accuracy. The die "floats" and aligns itself with the case on every stroke. All of his precision dies are Redding Comp dies.
A lot of guys will look at this and say....... "yeah, well, maybe he has time for all that"......... And it's the difference between vying for 1.25" groups and everyone putting in their 2 cents about going up a grain....... down 1.5 grains, different projectile, change powders and a thread on it some 60 posts long or......... Just posting a photo of your entirely repeatable results.
Not magic, not rocket science.......... just dedication, and once you're there, you'll never go back.

Question 13

13) Notes on Reloading #2

Accepted Answer

There are two directions the reloader for the Swiss 7.5x55 can take as concerns our approach. Assuming you've already read our initial approach, you may choose to end it there. This next step will take you into increasing accuracy and developing repeatable targets. Case prep is, for us, easily 95% of the repeatable round process.
 
From here on you'll need a Chronograph. It's the only way to measure your success in the reloading process. The term "Standard Deviation +or -" (SD) means the difference between your fastest and slowest round fired. That deviation is very dependent on the "neck tension" of your resized case, or, in other words, how tightly the neck grips the projectile when it passes through your bullet seater. Two things will control that. The amount of the neck gripping the projectile, and how tightly the projectile is gripped. Both will greatly affect the SD, and the further downrange you shoot, the more critical that becomes. The smaller the SD, the better.
 
Remember that we're talking about our caliber only. Other calibers will behave differently and will require or allow far more variables because of the short throated chamber of the k31. Yes, I'm well aware of the 911 series being a bit different in the throat, but also keep in mind that the GP11 cartridge was developed in Bern for ALL of the Swiss rifles (save the 1889 and earlier) from the G11 right through the MG51..... All using the identical cartridge, and all with the very accurate end result for a production military issue cartridge. The first control of neck tension will be, after full length resizing, trimming to an absolutely identical length. This will control the amount/length of the case neck gripping the projectile.
If you've already bought your press and dies, this might be as far as you want to take it..... But if you're going to the next logical step in controlling neck tension, you'll buy a set of Redding Comp dies. This will allow you to full length size (FLS) the case body and resize the neck seperately. Why? Because by using a Redding collet you can assure that the neck tension is as uniform as possible through this step. You may want to buy two collets...... One at your known caliber size and one the next size down.
Only seating the projectile in "your particluar press" is going to determine which one suits your particular projectile factual size.

"Aren't they all identical? No. From Mfg. to Mfg. there can be a difference so slight that simple measureing might not show any real difference. All Sierra's may be the same, but switch to Berger or Hornady or any others may not be absolutely identical, and with neck tensions, we require identical performance. "Nit picking"? Maybe, but your long range targets are going to tell you. Seat depth. I can tell you that the GP11 has already provided an optimum seat depth. K31's greatly prefer having the ogive no more than 2 or 3 thou's off the lands.

Assuming your case prep is satisfactory at this point, that small jump from case neck to lands/grooves becomes the focal point of accuracy. The G11 series of rifles also greatly prefer the GP11 seat depth. Remember that you're (for the moment) using different powders and different projectile profiles than the issue GP11 cartridge.
You've already read the original introduction to reloading previously written, so you know how to test seat depth performances based on Ogive/Lands contact and the OAL required for your chosen projectile. Don't forget......... seat depth and OAL are only relevant to a specific projectile you've chosen for reloading. I'll post the final steps we use here at SP later.
The foregoing will take you to a good starting or even a good finish point with the presses and dies you now have. If you'd like to "free range" with projectile profiles and powders, go to Swissproductsusa.com and click on the FAQ and open the "What Projectlies and Powders Do I begin With?" That one has 45 years of condensed load data posted with the exception of RE17 which I will cover later.

Question 14

14) Brass

Accepted Answer

RUAG Boxer Swiss National Match brass......... the finest on the planet.
Ok. So here's how the American reloading part of it began for the k31, the G11's, the zfk55 and the Pe57. I don't remember the year, sometime in the 90's but a lot of shooters on the various Swiss Forums and elsewhere will remember better than I do because they bought it from me.......... My memory has gotten terrible......We brought in some 10,000 Ruag Swiss National Match Brass, but before that, I called Grafs and three other outfits asking if they'd like to front this buy and handle it themselves. "What? 7.5x what? For what rifles? never heard of them"..... So....... we brought it in.
 
Within two weeks the whole bunch was gone. I called Grafs again. "What?!? You sold it all already?" Yep...... and I'm about to bring in another 50,000 of the same brass, and another 150,000 as soon as that's gone. I expect about a month. "Wait, wait wait! Do you want us to handle that?" I put them in direct touch with Ruag in Bern, and......... that's how it all began for US reloaders. I have an awful lot of Norma brass here, but if you really do a lot of reloading, you already know how soft Norma brass is.
 
I can't remember how much RUAG brass we have, but if you anneal every 5 cycles, you're going to be working on that first 200 brass for an awfully long time. I have yet to have any RUAG brass fail on me, and you can guess how many rounds I've sent down range here over the past 18 or 20 years since we did that first import............ That incredible boxer brass was cut off for export maybe 10 years ago when RUAG began their Commercial Loads for sales to Europe.
 
Can't remember for sure , but that's when Grafs began working with PRVI Partisan for brass and loaded cartridges and our own 18 year association with Graf's began.
Now the last reserves run of GP11 in 1995 are nearly gone, but RUAG began a new run two years ago. It's still that great Swiss National Match brass and still labeled GP11, but it's also still Berdan primed. The wax ring is gone since log term storage is no longer necessary. The last firearm in the Swiss Army requiring the crimp is the MG51, and that will very soon be replaced by the FN Minimi, so........ no crimp required for the 7.5x55 caliber with all the select mode rifles no longer in service.
 
As for loaded cartridges, Norma manufactures them and PRVI Partison, or PPU may be purchased through Graf and sons. GP11 brass may also be reloaded, but will be covered in another section.

Question 15

15) How do I align my front Tunnel Sight to the Bore?

Accepted Answer

To correctly install the clamp on front sight, place the rifle between your knees with the butt on the floor. Now tighten up your Allen screws so you're just able to rotate the site left and right. Looking straight down the muzzle, align the neck of the globe site perfectly in line with the blade of the issue front sight. That should put you dead center. Tighten down the left front Allen screw first then the right rear Allen screw then the right front Allen screw and finally the left rear Allen screw.

Question 16

16) hBN and What are Impact Coated Projectiles and what is the process?

Accepted Answer

Ok. Forget everything you've read on the net about hBN Hexagonal Boron Nitride. Processes I've seen posted fall far short of being effective and may that try it eventually give up because "the process is too time consuming and the results minimal". No, they're not minimal if it's done correctly. The US Navy began using hBN on large deck guns a very long time ago. This involved use in production of items using fine gears, sprockets and anything requiring a very long term dry lubricant, have been using hBN in a nozzeled spray form for years. The product is patented and I've provided a link to that patent if you really want a long and extremely dry read.
I did read it and followed up with a call to the Canadian outfit I buy it from. After a 1/2 hour conversation with a gent in the lab, I began formulation our own process, and after 7 years, I can tell you that it is indeed effective. Proof? Only your own observations of a couple of control, rifles with a Hawkeye Pro Borescope and an awful lot of projectiles down range will tell you.
I spent three summers producing ICPs, and there are many thousands of ICPs in various calibers in the reloading room. All were purchased in 500 or 1,000 lot groups and then ID'd with a red dot on the original boxes.
No rifle or handgun here sends a round downrange that isn't an ICP. , so.................... here we go.
================================
Your bore is going to make a difference right out of the gate. Both Moly and hBN have specific applications. Lab Grade Moly is typically 99.8% pure with a 1 to 3 micron size. hBN (far more preferrable in [i]most[/i] bores) is typically negative 5 micron or smaller.
First, hBN. The patent shows it as being most effective on a standard steel bore, less effective on a 17-4 S/S Electro Polished bore, this because the negative micron particles cannot ingrain themselves as well into the surface and create the required ceramic protective coating.
hBN is not susceptible to moisture and thus does not allow corrosion to affect the lands/grooves of the bore. This is a rather large advantage over Moly.
The process is simple.
If you've ever fired a copper jacketed projectile in your rifle, use a water based copper removal specific such as Wipe Out. Whatever you use, make sure its water based and ammonia free. Once you've borescoped and found the bore to be completely copper free, if the bore is .30 caliber, roll a .270 (or whatever, but a bit smaller diameter than your bore) caliber [i]clean[/i] swab in a mixture of 100% Denatured Alcohol and hBN. Use a small, sealable pill bottle, glass or plastic to mix and store the slurry. The ratio should replicate a slurry the consistency of milk. Run it back and forth through the bore.
Within minutes I fire an impact coated projectile through the bore and that's it. The bore is effectively ceramic coated.
Everyone has a methodology and most involve pill bottles in the tumbler suspended in media. I don't. I use 16oz plastic pharmacy jars with screw on lids, and not inside the tumbler suspended in the media.
All four jars are filled to the 1/3rd mark with impact coated .177 steel BBs. The BBs must be washed in Dawn or cleaned with a Sonic Vibrator and denatured alcohol. Add a nominal 1.5gr of hBN to each jar.
Place 50 .30 caliber (or whatever, untouched by human hands) clean projectiles in each jar, add a nominal .5gr of hBN and vibrate for three hours. The jars impact coat the projectiles easily 4 times harder and faster than in a pill bottle suspended inside the tumbler in media. Once the lids are screwed down tight, use a 1/2" wide strip of plastic tape around the area between the lid and the jar.
Negative 5 micron hBN is so fine it can find it's way through the threads.Use a large slotted spoon to remove the impact coated projectiles from the jars and tumble them in a Terrycloth towel.
We begin by stripping the chambers, throats and bore with Wipe Out. Its an ammonia free, water based bore cleaner that removes literally everything. Carbon, copper, any kind of fouling including Moly. We leave the Foam Type Wipe Out in the bore and throat for about two hours then dry swab everything. We do a follow-up inspection for any copper residue with a Hawekeye Borescope. A complete, 100% copper free bore is essential.
I wash the bullets in very hot, soapy water with Dawn. I use a bowl with a plastic strainer that just fits in it. Once washed, I thoroughly rinse with hot water, not cold. From that point I handle the projectiles as little as possible and then only with disposable latex gloves. Assuming you've already treated the .177 steel BBs, you can put 50 .30 caliber or 100 smaller caliber bullets in each jar.
We place a thin layer of dense foam in the bottom of the Dillon. The jars are sealed where the top threads down onto the jar with plastic electrical tape to keep any hBN from leaking out. We place the jars on their sides and pack them in with chunks of foam. We place enough foam on top of them so that when the vibrator lid is screwed down they're trapped tightly. This keeps everything horizontal and the bullets stay on the horizontal position. Works much better and you won't need a specialty lid for your Dillon.
With hBN, heat is absolutely necessary. In Winter, we use heat in the form of a Halogen body shop lamp. Placement of the lamp is critical for the well-being of your tumbler. Too close and you'll soften the plastic. Vibrate them for 3 hours and roate the containers at the 1.5 hour mark. . Remove them with a slotted spoon and tumble them in a Terry towel a few times. They'll come out perfect. This horizontal impact coating with steel BBs in a vibrator with no media makes them hit hard and fast, and that's the secret to perfect coating. Even small ballistic tipped bullets come out perfectly with no damage to the plastic/lead tips at all.
Photos of the correct sequence for impact coating projectiles (ICP's) will follow soon
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Question 17

17) What are Hard-Cast Projectiles and how do I make them?

Accepted Answer

We have maybe 4 to 500 pounds of wheel weights from the late 80's and early 90's. For whatever reason, they're all a nominal BH factor of 9 to begin with.

I bought a 2 gallon bucket of Anthimony from the outfit here in Thompson falls that manufactures it. It's all in a rock form. The expensive stuff you buy from a store is in a (preferred) powder form, so........... we have to crunch it as small as we can with a mall. Once its in a granulated state, you can add it to the BH9 lead in your pot. It MUST be taken up to 1,100 degrees minimum for it to melt and mix into the lead.

We do have a Lyman Electric Lead Pot, however.......... being inescapably old school, I don't use the bottom load spout. I still use the dipper. I only depend on the Lyman for controlled temperatures. Latigo also prefers to use the dipper.

You also must take great care NOT to add too much. It takes a very small amount, measured in a fraction of grains. I remember doing just that years ago and found I could take the BH factor up to 32+, and the projectiles shattered upon target impact! ........ so, we use a BH factor of 18, and we can actually cast a .22 caliber projectile for the .223's that will push right at 3,200 fps.
........ but we also "case harden" projectiles that are pushing close to FMJ FPS or better projectiles.

How do we do it? Ma's explanation is "NOT IN MY STOVE OR KITCHEN...... EVER AGAIN!!" Solution? We have a smaller counter top type oven. We do all of our casting outside anway, so........ It's the perfect solution. No Darning Eggs required. LOL!
So.... we cast the caliber, lube it through the Swager the first time in the diameter of the caliber, but that first Swager is 1/1000th over the size of the slugged bore.

Next comes the Case Hardening, and you have to pay close attention to the projectiles during the process.
Either in one of the smaller, portable ovens, (or in Ma's oven the first time before she kicked me out) with the temperature at 215 degrees. Stand them all upright, side by side in a shallow tray.......... Now you watch to see when they begin to aquire a glossy sheen. Remove them immediately and let them cool naturally...... No water dumping.

Now you're going to put them through the bullet Swager again, but........ this time it's through a Companion Swager that's 1/1000th smaller in diameter, matching the original slugged bore dimension making sure to run plenty of lube into the Swager...... What you do not want to do is break the surface and destroy the case hardening you've accomplished.
It's true that a BH factor above 12 won't allow the bullet to expand much, but you can sure boost that FPS factor up to, and equal to a FMJ.
Now.......... an' you ain' gunna like dis wun........ You want to reach the velocities in the reloading books? Yep. you guessed it. hBN ICPs...... and only fired through a Slurry Sealed bore. You've already seen the process, and making ICPs out of these is fast. Each jar can take an easy 50 to 80 at a time, depending on your tumbler/vibrator.

Question 18

18) Diopter History

Accepted Answer

Approval for Swiss matches world wide. We couldn't patent the outer shell of the existing Diopter because Wyss in Switzerland held that, but we were able to patent the inner workings of the P/S because it was completely different than the old Swiss original. Another company in Germany attempted to duplicate the P/S in 2013 but our Distributor in the Netherlands suppled his own attorney to stop that production.
We're the first and only American company that has approval for Firearm Accessory sales in Switzerland. That took us a long time.
How the P/S Diopter came to be, and the story of the first production P/S
We developed out first Diopter because the ones in production both in Switzerland and Germany had obvious shortcomings. Anyone who owns an “original” Diopter knows this. The first Diopters were a Bern manufacture but had nothing to do with Army issue items.

The "original" Diopters have a real flaw. If you traverse the windage to the maximum in both directions you’ll see a gap open up exposing the inside of the Diopter to dirt, sand, whatever. The Matrix also “cocks” itself off true horizontal. You’ll also notice that when you mount the Diopter, to achieve a true axis alignment to the front sight and the bore, you have to begin with a left windage setting. We completely redesigned the interior workings of the Diopter to correct all of that. The Steel Type P/S only came about because of demands from the Swiss SSV. Without those changes they would not give us approval for Swiss Sanctioned Matches worldwide, so………….. We developed the Type P/S and gave it a 1,000 yard capability to boot, so………………….. How our Diopters were designated.
It’s not something I did. Frank Van Binnendijk (Guisan) posted the designation on his own when we did our first show & tell. He called it the Type P. Maybe a week went by when I asked him why he had given it that designation. He asked. “What’s your name?” Well………….. its Pierre. *D’Oh!* ………and that is how it was named. Subsequently there was the Type PII, and that one clamped on the existing scope sight that many shooters already had. It allowed the Scope and Type PII Diopter to be quickly changed from one to the other. The Type PIIC was simply the entire system with the Clamp On Scope Mount included. All were aluminum at that time.
It took nearly 8 years to gain SSV approval, and our SP Distributor in Switzerland had a lot to do with it. We submitted 3 different protypes ove that period, and they were all turned down, one after the other, but.......... The odd thing is that they never made it back to the US. The simply disappeared into the SSV. LOL
My frustration level was rather high, so we developed a Steel Diopter with a radical new internal op-system. We were able to accomplish 75 out to 1,000+ yards with this one. But it had to be proofed by someone who was both qualified and not connected to SP in any way. Enter US Naval Distinguished Marksman, Robert L. Steinberg.
Bob provided the testing we needed before submitting this new design to the SSV in Switzerland. I have his proof results around here somewhere, and I'll post it as soon as I locate it. It's around 5 years ago now. So................. in appreciation for his efforts in provind the P/S at Quantico, we dedicated the very first production Type P/S off the line to him.
We were accepted by the Swiss SSV in 2012, I think. (OGS again.) Latigo not only engraved the dedication on the Diopter, but he also made a presentation case for Mr. Steinberg, acknowledgeing our sincere appreciation.
Now with the advent of the new Adjustable Front Sight, even the old Type P’s and PIIs will achieve the 1,000 yard ability.
As of the end of next week, the new P11 Diopters will be on the way to Grafs. This one will use the 1911 Clamp-On-Mount and work with the 1889, Kadett, 1896, 96/11, the G11 and the K11 rifles.
Time to clarify and save me a BUNCH of PM/email answering.
Question: Why are the Swiss Products Diopters as expensive as they are now?
Three years ago my friend Frank Van Binnendijk asked me if he could show our interior design to Daniel Wyss. He was interested in what we were doing. Wyss is a HUGE weapons and accessory manufacturer in Switzerland. He was intrigued by our 1,000+ yard capablility. He also made one that went to 1,000 yards, but not a stand-alone system. If a shooter wanted to go beyond 500 yards, he was obliged to make a rail change in the Diopter, but then he couldn't go down to 100 yards without changing rails back again.
Latigo printed up a large photo of our PS Diopter interior and cost factors and sent it to Frank for Daniel Wyss with my blessing.
One week later Frank was in Switzerland and spoke to Daniel again and gave him a larger copy. The answer came rather quickly. He was told that a diopter with the capablity of the PS with the myriad of parts such as double-spring systems etc, could not be manufactured for even 10% more than Graf's retail price.
Those of you familiar with the original Swiss and German Diopters know that it all hinged on one, large spring in the upper right corner of the Diopter that handled both windage and elevation. The PS and G11 Diopters are a very far cry from both the original and present day Diopters from Switzerland and Germany. We cost count every single part in the Mfg. of our Diopters and our markup is the same as every Mfg in the country does, just to keep us afloat. I'll copy and paste this for future PMs and emails.

Question 19

19) Swiss Rifle Mfg Dating. Manufacture Dates:

Accepted Answer

To determine the date of manufacture of a particular rifle, one needs to know both the model and the serial number. Given the model, go to the appropriate table and look for the range of serial numbers that spans the given serial number. The corresponding date for that serial number is shown in the left column of the table.

For example, given a Model 1911 with a serial number of 2673xx, the tables show no such serial number for a Model 1911. There is a range spanning this serial number for a Model 1889/96, however, showing a manufacture date of 1900. Knowing that the M89/96s were converted to approximate the M1911 form, we conclude that this rifle is a Model 1889/96/11 manufactured in 1900.

As another example, given a Model 1931 with a serial number of 9999xx, the tables indicate that this rifle was manufactured in 1953.
Note: Some rifles will have an uppercase P either after or below the serial number. Upon retirement from active duty, the retiring Swiss soldier was given the opportunity to keep his service rifle. Rifles so obtained were stamped with the uppercase P near the serial number, and should not be confused with the "Private" series of rifles indicated in the tables below. The "Private" series of rifles were manufactured to fill special orders with the factory (such as for export).

[b]Model 1889 - Training Rifles (Instruktionsgewehre)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1893 40 E1-E39 (E20 doubled)
1895 2 E43, E45
1896 2 E42, E44
[b]Model 1889 - Repeating Rifles (Repetiergewehre) Manufacture ended on April 29, 1897[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1891 24900 1-24900
1892 90100 24901-115000
1893 59100 115001-174100
1894 8787 174101-174887 175001-183000
1895 12500 183001-195500
1896 12500 195501-208000
1897 4000 208001-212000
[b]Cavalry Carbine Model 1893 (Kavalleriekarabiner)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1896 250 4251-4500
1897 250 4501-4750
1898 250 4751-5000
1899 250 5001-5250
1900 400 5251-5650
1901 500 5651-6150
1902 500 6151-6650
1903 500 6651-7150
1904 300 7151-7450
1905 300 7451-7750
1895-1905 96 P1-P96 - Private series,numbers P46-P84 for a commercial company, Paris
1897-1903 11 E1-E11, extra series,entry in the export book of Waffenfabrik Bern
[b]Model 1889/96 - Training Rifles (Instruktionsgewehre)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1897 2 E2-E3
1899 4 E4-E7
1900 4 E8-E11
1904 4 E12-E15
1908 4 E16-E19
[b]Model 1889/96 - Repeating Rifles (Repetiergewehre) Manufacture ended in November 1912[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1895 50 1-50
1897 9000 212001-221000
1898 15500 221001-236500
1899 15500 236501-252000
1900 16500 252001-268500
1901 11500 268501-280000
1902 12000 280001-292000
1903 10000 292001-302000
1904 8000 302001-310000
1905 6000 310001-316000
1906 6000 316001-322000
1907 5000 322001-327000
1908 5000 327001-332000
1909 4800 332001-336800
1910 6300 336801-343100
1911 1900 343101-345000
1912 4000 345001-349000
[b]Model 1897 Cadet Rifles (Kadettengewehre) Sub-caliber Trainers (per J. Walter) (Einsatzgewehre)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1899 18 E1-E18
1900 6 E19-E24
1901 9 E25-E33
1902 3 E34-E36 (P9+P34?)
1903 2 E37-E38
1904 1 E39
1907 1 E40 (P40)
[b]Model 1897 Cadet Rifles (Kadettengewehre)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1898 2100 1-2100
1899 1649 2101-3749
1900 1580 3750-5329
1901 499 5330-5828
1902 193 5829-6021
1903 232 6022-6253
1904 151 6254-6404
1905 114 6405-6518
1906 183 6519-6701
1907 150 6702-6851
1908 82 6852-6933
1909 37 6934-6970
1910 236 6971-7206
1911 99 7207-7305
1912 115 7306-7420
1914 231 15001-15231
1915 33 15232-15264
1916 70 15265-15334
1918 2 15335-15336
1924 26 15337-15362
1925 20 15363-15382
1926 80 15383-15462
1927 15 15463-15477
1898-1919 45 P1-P45, Private series entry in the export book of Waffenfabrik Bern
[b]Model 1889/1900 Short Rifles (Kurze Gewehre)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1901 5000 1-5000
1902 885 5001-5885
1903 915 5886-6800
1904 1000 6801-7800
1905 1500 7801-9300
1906 1500 9301-10800
1907 1750 10801-12550
1908 1750 12551-14300
1909 1650 14301-15950
1910 1500 15951-17450
1911 1300 17451-18750
? 176 P1-P176 [sic],
Private series,entry in the export book of Waffenfabrik Bern
1903 Zoll 89 P72-P150
1904 Zoll 300 P173-P472
? 50 P501-P550
Zoll 394 P551-P944
Zoll 190 P951-P1140
Zoll 103 P1141-P1243
Note: Zoll - Customs service
[b]Model 1905 Cavalry Carbines (Kavalleriekarabiner)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1906 810 1-810
1907 2790 811-3600
1908 2600 3601-6200
1909 500 6201-6700
1910 600 6701-7300
1911 600 7301-7900
1906-1914 39 P1-P39, Private series,entry in the export book of Waffenfabrik Bern
[b]Model 1896/11 Infantry Rifles (Infanteriegewehre) These rifles carry the serial numbers of the Model 1896 rifles from which they were modified[/b]
Year Quantity
1912 5000
1913 40000
1914 51000
1915 38000
1916 1500
1918 200
1919 50
1920 20
[b]Model 1911 Infantry Rifles (Infanteriegewehre) Manufacture ended on October 1, 1919[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1912 6000 355001-361000
1913 14000 349001-355000 361001-369000
1914 5000 369001-374000
1915 22000 374001-396000
1916 32000 396001-428000
1917 31000 428001-459000
1918 20000 459001-479000
1919 3000 479001-482000
? 200 P5000-P5200, Private series,last manufactured on October 10, 1919,entry in the export book of Waffenfabrik Bern
? 1 P5219
? 698 P5251-P5948
[b]Model 1911 Carbines (Karabiner) Manufacture ended on July 11, 1933[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1914 6000 30001-36000
1915 4000 36001-40000
1916 13000 40001-53000
1917 16100 53001-54400 55001-62000* 62301-70000**
1918 19000 70001-89000
1919 2000 89001-91000
1920 6500 91001-97500
1921 8500 97501-106000
1922 7500 106001-113500
1923 7900 113501-121400
1924 7600 121401-129000
1925 7500 129001-136500
1926 9900 136501-146400
1927 12600 146401-159000
1928 11500 159001-170500
1929 12800 170501-183300
1930 9900 183301-193200
1931 8800 193201-202000
1932 9200 202001-211200
1933 3900 211201-215100
1913-1919 300 P2001-P2300,
Private seriesentry in the export book of Waffenfabrik Bern
Zoll 18 P2013-2030
Zoll 8 P2037-P2044
Zoll 30 P2071-P2100
Zoll 100 P2101-P2200
without entries 4 P2201-P2204
? 19 P2205-P2223
Zoll 50 P2251-P2300
Notes:Zoll - Customs service* Serial numbers 54401-55000 and 62001-62300 are missing (900 pieces)** Serial numbers 69701-69750 have double entries, but are only entered once in this list. Consequently, the total of the Model 1911 Carbines listed here comes to 185150 pieces.
[b]Special Model 1911 Rifles (Extra-Gewehre)[/b]
YearWhoSerial numbers
1915 Kriegstechnische Abteilung, Bern - E500
1914 Koenigliche Gewehrpruefungskommission, Ruheleben-Spandau -Spanische Gesandtschaft, Bern - E501E502
1919 Emile Galley, Lausanne - E503
1920 Hollaendische Gesandtschaft, Bern -Englische Gesandtschaft, Bern - E504E505
1915 Eidgenpessiosches Militaerdepartement, Bern - E506-E507
1917 Sektion fuer Munition, Thun - E508
1918 Amerikanische Gesandtschaft, Bern - E509
1919 Franzoesische Gesandtschaft, Bern - E510
1920 Franzoesische Kriegsministerium, Paris -Tiro Suizo, Buenos Aires - E511-E520E521-E522
1921 Italienische Gesandtschaft, Bern -Italienischer Militaerattache, Bern -Flugplatzdirektion, Duebendorf -Sektion fuer Schiessversuche, Thun - E523 E524 E525 E526-E527
1922 Eidgenoessische Munitionsfabrik, Thun -Eidgenoessische Munitionsfabrik, Thun -Internationales Wettschiessen, Mailand -The High Commissioner for the Commonwealth of Australia, London - E525? E528-E529 E530 E531
1923 Franzoesisches Kriegsministerium, Paris - E532
1924 Eidgenoessisches Schuetzenfest, Aarau -KTA, fuer Schweden -KTA, fuer Tschechoslowakei - E533-E534 E535 E536
1925 KTA, fuer Waffenfabrik Oviedo -KTA, Bern -Schiessschule Walenstadt - E537 E538-E539 E540-E541
1926 Afghanische Regierung (mit Dolch 18) -KTA, fuer Tschechoslowakei - E542 E543
1934 J. Alder W+F, Bern - E544
Notes:KTA - Kriegstechnischen Abteilung des schweizerischen MilitaerdepartementsW+F - Waffenfabrik
[b]Special Model 1911 Carbines (Extra-Karabiner)[/b]
Year Who Serial numbers
1918 Amerikanische Gesandtschaft, Bern E1
1919 Amerikanische Gesandtschaft, Bern E2
1920 Hollaendische Gesandtschaft, Bern -Tiro Suizo, Buenos Aires -Tiro Suizo, Buenos Aires - E3E 5E6
1921 Direktion Eidgenoessische Waffenfabrik, Bern E7
1923 Franzoesisches Kriegsministerium, Paris E4
1926 Afghanische Regierung E8
1932 Wojskorny Zaklad, Warschau -Werkzeugmaschinenfabrik, Oerlikon - E9E10
1952 unreadable E11
[b]Model 1911 Carbines (Karabiner) Converted from Model 1889/1900 Short Rifles and Model 1905 Cavalry Carbines[/b]
Year Quantity
1913 1000
1914 8000
1915 8000
1916 8200
1917 900
1918 100
1919 70
1920 65
[b]Model 1911 Trials Carbines (Versuchs-Karabiner)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1923 KTA, Bern V1-V10
1926 KTA, fuer Schiessschule Walenstadt V1-V200
Note: KTA - Kriegstechnischen Abteilung des schweizerischen Militaerdepartements
[b]Model 1931 Carbines (Karabiner)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1933 1193 520010-521202
1934 15534 521203-536736
1935 13664 536737-550400
1936 11326 550401-561727
1937 11639 561728-573366
1938 10344 573367-583700
1939 15300 583701-599000
1940 33575 599001-632575
1941 54150 632576-686725
1942 49350 686726-736075
1943 50475 736076-786550
1944 51900 786551-838450
1945 26200 838451-864650
1946 15600 864651-880250
1947 20950 880251-901200
1948 20100 901201-921300
1949 15500 921301-936800
1950 13200 936801-950000
1951 23050 950001-973050
1952 21400 973051-994450
1953 554 97450 994451-999 999215001-222450
1954 17150 222451-239600
1955 11250 239601-250850
1956 6400 250851-257250
1957 2950 257251-260200
1958 3130 260201-263330
[b]Model 1931 Carbines - Private series[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1934 16 ?
1935 500 400001-400500
1936 100 Zoll 401001-401100
1937 150 Zoll200 401101-401250400501-400700
1938 150 400701-400850
1939 20 401501-401520
1940 1505305050 400851-401000401521-402050402151-402220402251-402300
1941 300 402301-402600
1942 650 402501[sic]-403150[sic]
1943 350 403151-403500
1944 400 403501-403900
1945 600 403901-404500
1946 837 404501-405337
1947 92930 405322[sic]-406250E519767-E519796
1948 400 406251-406650
1949 650 406651-407300
1950 40050 407301-407700 408001-408050
1951 30050 407701-408000 408051-408100
1952 300 408101-408400
1953 45050 408401-408850 409051-409100
1954 200100 408851-409050 409101-409200
1955 450100 409201-409650 410151-410250
1956 450 409651-410100
1957 50300 410101-410150 410251-410550
1958 475 410551-411025
1959 425 411026-411450
1960 300 411451-411750
1961 300 411751-412050
1962 400 412051-412450
1963 50400 267331-267380412451-412850
1968- 1969 150 various numbers
1971 15050 269431-269580269881-269930
Stand (?) 1972 250 various numbers
Note:Zoll - Customs service
[b]Model 1931 serial number allocation, valid after November 1, 1952[/b][Note this table gives only the records of serial blocks allocated for various purposes. See the K31 tables above for yearly records of specific serial ranges actually marked on receivers.]
Serial Numbers Allocation
215001-350000 K31 Carbine series, ordered by KTA for KMV
350001-400000 K31 Carbine series
P400001-P450000 Private K31 Carbine series
450001-500000 K31 Carbines with telescopic sights (sniper versions)
500001-500200 Trials versions
E519701-E519900 Various special K31s
519901-519999 Cutaway K31s (running backwards?), last number 519970
520001-520150 Carbine series ordered by KTA, delivered by W+F for special purposes
520081-520100 Ditto, reserved for W+F
520151-999999 Carbine series, ordered by KTA for KMV
after 550651 Hardened magazine boxes
after 540001 Hardened receivers
Notes:KTA - Kriegstechnischen Abteilung des schweizerischen MilitaerdepartementsKMV - KriegsmaterialverwaltungW+F - Waffenfabrik
[b]Models 1931/42 and 1931/43 Sniper Rifles (Zielfernrohr-Karabiner)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1943 96 ?
1944 403 ?
1945 1537 ?
1946 205 ?
[b]Model 1955 Sniper Rifles (Zielfernrohr-Karabiner)[/b]
Year Quantity Serial numbers
1957 170 1001-1170
1958 3030 1171-4200
1959 800 4201-5000
? 150 5001-5150
Commemorative K31, 50 years 1931 - 1981 #001 - 500.
Original serials 270801 - 271300

Question 20

20) Rifles Stamped with "P""

Accepted Answer

Why is a rifle with that "Special P" so highly sought after. Let's think about this. The Kellog's company began in..... hm. Lets start again. Oh yeah. Swiss rifles. When a soldier mustered out of the service, he was given two options. Turn in his rifle or keep it to take home. If he opted to keep it, the armoury stamped a "P" on it, usually just ahead of the serial number, but not in all cases. Haemmerli also made an entire run of k31's made well after the war, and the were a private run for sales to citizens, et al.
 
Also stamped with a "P", that signified their private run. That P was always done in the same font, same pressure and in perfect alignment with the serial number. Not too difficult to recognize, so..... what is the special attraction to the mustered out, "P" stamped rifles?

Consider this. A rifle turned in to the armoury and never re-issued would not have been fired again after that point. A rifle released to the citizen soldier would very likely see an entire lifespan of being fired in the weekly or monthly meets in the villages or sponsored meets in the Swiss Clubs throughout the country.
 
That would equal many hundreds of rounds fired through that "highly sought after" P stamped rifle.

Question 21

21) Reloading Presses

Accepted Answer

There's no doubt in the world that the myriad of presses out there on the market will function fine for your reloading.  This particular Archive is dedicated to the press that we highly recommend for precision and long-range shooting. 
The Forster press.

So...... you have a machine screw made to fit exactly into two copper plates the bottom plate threaded. The alignment looks perfect and you immediately feel a very minor resistance. You back it out an on closer inspection you can tell that the alignment is imperceptibly off....... not enough to really measure, but just enough that you have to add a bit more torque to seat the screw home than you really should....... But it fits and it's tight.
You have a shell holder mounted at the base of your press. It's time for the resizing process. That press handle is heavy duty and the shell casing runs right up into the die, albeit with a bit of pressure you weren't quite expecting, but it goes home all the way and, upon extraction, it looks good.

Now the seating die. Your projectile is either a boattail or a very slightly rounded edge on the base. It slides down into the case mouth, and you don't really detect any real resistance, or maybe the slightest bit, so......... What has just happened?

You've (without really feeling it) just forced your shell case to align itself between the shell holder with the die....... You just did the same thing with your projectile, so.......... now both the shell case and projectile are at 90 degrees to the shell holder. Looks good....... feels straight..... roll it on the reloading bench and there's really no detectable wobble, but once it's chambered and fired, are those minute stresses that forced the shell case and projectile truly in dead alignment and absolutely concentric to
the bore? The body, for sure, but what about the case neck to the base? The neck to the projectile?

With most all standard presses, absolute concentricity may or may not be absolutely true. Those minute differences only show up at real range, long distance. Everything goes into the equation when you reload. Sometimes they never show at all.
Suppose your case went up into a die that was "floating" and centered itself freely with no side pressure from the shellholder? Suppose it also went up "into" the seating die and again...... centered itself on the floating seater?

Now you have a case that is reloaded with no side thrust between a fixed shell holder and die. Perfect columnation with everything in dead alignment to the case body. Those are now three variables gone from your case prep. You've also, in all likelihood, just used a Forster press.
Nit picking? Wasted time? Ask a few old benchresters, and while that's not what I'm directing you to, the fewer variables in your case prep and reloading..... the better. These are all very simple and oft overlooked aspects of reloading.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/2e1374_194f085e9eda4732b905ec8f69f25f37~mv2.png

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/2e1374_6f003b145ba14579b86415de0f5d452a~mv2.png

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/2e1374_fb1c7c4928644e9cb54d82bafae61a52~mv2.png

Question 22

22) Primers and pockets.

Accepted Answer

Primer pockets:
You may have ended your case prep with the initial information in the "Reloading the 7.5x55" post, but if you're headed for the best case prep you can manage, then you'll want to include these steps.
Truing the Primer Pocket is essential for us. Cleaning with a P/P wire brush is a part of standard case prep, but you'll need to go a step further with "truing". This tool puts the pocket into a perfect receptor for your primers with a controllable depth cut. It can/does remove miniscule bits of brass,. but it also ensures a positive seating and dependable/equal ignition.
As for seating........ This one goes a lot of different directions with available Primer Seaters. The RCBS press attachment, bench mounted and various hand seater tools and my personal favorite for absolutely consistent Primer seating, the Forster Press seater on the top of the press itself. Forster and a number of other Mfg's make their versions and Forster also makes a bench top type, but when the smoke clears, it's very important that your primer seating is absolutely repeatable with every round.
If you're using "once fired" Military Brass you may need to buy a Swaging tool. This tool opens up the primer pocket to accept commercial primers, From there you'll go to your standard case prep.
I've included photos of tool/equipment options commonly available.
Photos coming soon

Question 23

23) Using the K31 Threading Kit for Threaded Dampers and Brakes

Accepted Answer

Remove the barreled action from the stock. Clamp the barrel in an upright orhorizontal position in a sturdy padded vise. Hardwood, aluminum or brass, or heavy leather all make suitable vise jaw pads.
Do not attempt to hold the barrel in your hands while threading.
Next insert the small end of the brass guide rod into the muzzle. Assemble the two handles into the threading head and apply thread cutting oil to the inside of the die and the muzzle of the rifle. DO NOT USE LUBRICATING OIL for this purpose as it will inhibit the cutting action and cause the threads to tear. Slide the die body onto the brass rod and seat it against the muzzle.
Applying pressure, begin to rotate the die in a clockwise direction. You must use plentyof oil while doing this, and it is necessary to back the die off one-quarter turn for every revolution of the die to break the chip. Do not allow the chips to buildup inside the die as this also will tear the thread. An air gun to blow out the chips is a good idea. When the face of the die contacts the front sight band, blow out all the chips one last time then back off the die. If you have been careful to follow all of the above instructions, you should have a clean serviceable thread.
Sometimes short sections of thread will tear in spite of all your efforts. Unless these are severe, it will not affect the strength of the thread.
If you do not feel confident in your ability to do this job please take it to a gunsmith or skilled metalworker familiar with this kind of work.
SWISS PRODUCTS ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR THE IMPROPER USE OF THIS TOOL

Question 24

24) Scope Rings

Accepted Answer

There are a lot of manufacturers of 1 inch and 30mm rings with a 3/8 inch clamps. Most are intended for 22 rimfire caliber rifles, but I've had the set on my rifle since 1979 without ever a failure. Just make sure your front ring is up against the stop on the rail and you will be just fine.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to call on the Swiss product helpline at 406-858-2066. We are always here to help you.
Look at the images below. They're of a k31 but it applies to the G11 rifle series exactly the same......... Just on the opposite side.
All of this information applies to both the K 31 and the G 11 series rifles. On our opening page go to the upper right hand corner and click on the " rifle info" section and you will see the correct way to sight in or zero and offset scope mount.
Remember, you should be zeroing the center of your scope to the rail itself before mounting it on the rifle. If you're not sure about this call me on the helpline and I will explain..
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/3462?fbclid=IwAR1RtunpkyBgE7M-IvfylxtmJvIyXIErcWcjD7MW18fiLp7SRs_L0e8dgkI

https://www.amazon.com/Sniper-Ring-3-Dovetail-Medium-Profile/dp/B013VU97WM
https://www.google.com/search?q=1+inch+scope+rings+3%2F8+dovetail&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS805US805&oq=1%3E+scope+rings+with+3%2F8%22+&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l2.22318j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.amazon.com/NcSTAR-RB25-NcStar-Ring-3-Dovetail-Medium/dp/B001C20028
https://www.opticsplanet.com/s/dovetail-rings
https://www.amazon.com/Aim-Sports-Scope-Rings-Dovetail-low/dp/B006IWOSHK
https://www.pyramydair.com/a/Accessories/Mounts_bases_rings_levels_and_scope_stops/2_piece_mounts/59

In our experience, it's not usual for brass to hit your scope upon ejection, but if brass is touching your scope, then go to the hardware store and buy a small roll of the product 3M VHB. Make sure it's in black and about 1/2 inch wide. It's a double sided adhesive that's about 1/64 inch thick so it does provide a cushion. Wipe the lower quadrant closest to the receiver with alcohol, let it dry and then wipe again with a soft, clean cloth. Cut off two or 3 inches of the tape and apply it right to that area where you think the brass is touching. Rub a small amount of any kind of oil onto the surface of the tape and that will contaminate and deactivate the adhesive on the exposed side.
That will be the end of your problems.

Question 25

25) Op-Rod information

Accepted Answer

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/undefined

These two points on the lug, A&B are not inherently weak, but are the common place for the Op-Rod to fail if its going to with repeated undue harsh use. Keep in mind the age of these rifles.
(Photo coming soon)
We typically weld the LHO bridge to original Op-Rods, so we have intimate knowledge of the steel and its limits.
(Thanks Guisan)

We have Swiss Rifles here in the armoury, and I mean we have a variety of them. When in correct mechanical condition, not one of them requires undue force to cycle. Extraction is crisp and smooth, and running a correctly profiled cartridge into battery is smooth, effortless and a few at most requiring a solid push for the last 1/16" of bolt travel.
If your bolt is clean and your cartridges properly sized, seat depth correct for the rifle you'll have no problem running a cartridge smoothly into battery. If you have to slap them in or out, you have a problem and one most likely easily solved.
Rapping on the bolt handle with anything at all to remove a stuck case is a sure way to stress that op-rod and lug. Never, ever use a mallet or anything else on a k31 bolt handle.
So how do you remove a stuck case in a Swiss Rifle?
Try this:
You need to apply strong rearward inertia to the entire bolt, not just the handle.
Take the rifle in your left hand, holding it by the mid-foregrip. Place the edge your right hand (like a karate chop) against the bolt handle or you can grip it firmly with your fingers (not quite as effective with that type of bolt), or you can use a small block of wood in your hand to put downward pressure on the bolthandle. Raise the rifle about 18" off the ground and bring it down quickly, rapping the buttstock sharply against the ground while putting hard downpressure against the bolt with your right hand. Do it more than once if you need to, but I can tell you that its worked very time for me for as long as I've been reloading no matter what the rifle. If its a turn bolt action, rotate the bolt handle up and do the procedure. The AR10 is done the same way but just grip the bolt handle like you're extracting a cartridge and pull down hard while striking the butt on the ground.
Don't do this on concrete for obvious reasons.

Question 26

26) Ruag Brass Origins

Accepted Answer

RUAG Boxer Swiss National Match brass......... the finest on the planet.
Ok. So here's how the American reloading part of it began for the k31, the G11's, the zfk55 and the Pe57. I don't remember the year, sometime in the 90's  but a lot of shooters on the various Swiss Forums and elsewhere will remember better than I do because they bought it from me.......... My memory has gotten terrible......We brought in some 10,000 Ruag Swiss National Match Brass, but before that, I called Grafs and three other outfits asking if they'd like to front this buy and handle it themselves. "What? 7.5x what? For what rifles? never heard of them"..... So....... we brought it in. 
 
Within two weeks the whole bunch was gone. I called Grafs again. "What?!? You sold it all already?" Yep...... and I'm about to bring in another 50,000 of the same brass, and another 150,000 as soon as that's gone. I expect about a month. "Wait, wait wait! Do you want us to handle that?" I put them in direct touch with Ruag in Bern, and......... that's how it all began for US reloaders. I have an awful lot of Norma brass here, but if you really do a lot of reloading, you already know how soft Norma brass is. 
I can't remember how much RUAG brass we have, but if you anneal every 5 cycles, you're going to be working on that first 200 brass for an awfully long time. I have yet to have any RUAG brass fail on me, and you can guess how many rounds I've sent down range here over the past 18 or 20 years since we did that first import............ That incredible boxer brass was cut off for export maybe 10 years ago when RUAG began their Commercial Loads for sales to Europe.    Can't remember for sure , but that's when Grafs began working with PRVI Partisan for brass and loaded cartridges and our own 18 year association with Graf's began.
 
Now the last reserves run of GP11 in 1995 are nearly gone, but RUAG began a new run two years ago. It's still that great Swiss National Match brass and still labeled GP11, but it's also still Berdan primed. The wax ring is gone since log term storage is no longer necessary. The last firearm in the Swiss Army requiring the crimp is the MG51, and that will very soon be replaced by the FN Minimi, so........ no crimp required for the 7.5x55 caliber with all the select mode rifles no longer in service.
 
As for loaded cartridges, Norma manufactures them and PRVI Partison, or PPU may be purchased through Graf and sons. GP11 brass may also be reloaded, but will be covered in another section.

Question 27

27 Advanced Case Preparation

Accepted Answer

There are two directions the reloader for the Swiss 7.5x55 can take as concerns our approach. Assuming you've already read our initial approach, you may choose to end it there. This next step will take you into increasing accuracy and developing repeatable targets.
 
Case prep is, for us, easily 90% of the repeatable round process. From here on you'll need a Chronograph. It's the only way to measure your success in the reloading process. The term "Standard Deviation +or -" (SD) means the difference between your fastest and slowest round fired. That deviation is very dependent on the "neck tension" of your resized case, or, in other words, how tightly the neck grips the projectile when it passes through your bullet seater.
 
Two things will control that. The amount of the neck gripping the projectile, and how tightly the projectile is gripped. Both will greatly affect the SD, and the further downrange you shoot, the more critical that becomes. 
Remember that we're talking about our caliber only. Other calibers will behave differently and will require or allow far more variables because of the short throated chamber of the k31. Yes, I'm well aware of the 911 series being a bit different in the throat, but also keep in mind that the GP11 cartridge was developed in Bern for ALL of the Swiss rifles (save the 1889 and earlier) from the G11 right through the MG51..... All using the identical cartridge, and all with the very accurate end result for a production military issue cartridge.
The first control of neck tension will be, after full length resizing, trimming to an absolutely identical length. This will control the amount/length of the case neck gripping the projectile. If you've already bought your press and dies, this might be as far as you want to take it..... But if you're going to the next logical step in controlling neck tension, you'll buy a set of Redding Comp dies.
 
This will allow you to full length size (FLS) the case body and resize the neck seperately. Why? Because using a Redding collet, you can assure that the neck tension is as uniform as possible throught this step. You may want to buy two collets...... One at your known caliber size and one the next size down. Only seating the projectile is going to determine which one suits your particular projectile factual size. 
"Aren't they all identical? No. From Mfg. to Mfg. there can be a difference so slight that simple measuring might not show any real difference. All Sierra's may be the same, but switch to Berger or Hornady or any otehrs may not be absolutely identical, and with neck tensions, we require identical performance. Nit picking"? Maybe, but your long range targets are going to tell you.
Ok. Now you have your basic procedure. The next step for the most devoted is Case Neck Truing.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Tension as in "neck tension" has an incredible amount of importance in reloading.
Neck tension is controlled by two things, those being case neck trimming and truing.
Case neck trimming will determine how much of the inside surface of the neck is going to grip your projectile. Neck truing will determine how equal the neck tension is on the full 360° inside of your case neck. This is not going to be a tutorial on truing as there are a large number of videos on YouTube explaining exactly how you do it. I'm simply going to give you the importance of these two functions.
 
There are a plethora of case neck trimmers on the market, and not all of them function perfectly every time. If you have the kind of trimmer like the old standard RCBS, you have to tighten the collet around the base on each individual case. That actually does leave room for barely noticeable differences, but those differences do affect the grip on the projectile. The shorter the case neck, the less of a grip there is on the projectile just as the adverse is true. Shorter or longer, the true case length is very important. Every projectile that you reload should have the same neck length right to the thousandth or less.
So other than correct length sizing in your dies, you might think all you need from that point is a bushing, and rightfully so. When we are setting up a new caliber, we typically order three bushings. One in the recommended diameter, 1000th smaller, and one the next size up. We don't always end up using the recommended bushing, and we will reload 20 rounds using each bushing and let the target show us which bushing is correct. That is usually the end of the line for most reloaders. The exact neck tension might be correct on some of the cases and not absolutely correct on others. All of them are going to be the same outside diameter for sure if you trimmed to length correctly and have selected the best bushing for accuracy for that particular case and projectile. But there is one thing that is not addressed.
 
Let's consider that we are going to check a box of 100 brand-new cases from Norma, Lapua and Hornady, all of them listed as "national match brass". All things being equal, those cases should be absolutely identical inside and out, but are they factually identical? All cases, new or not should be sized on your own dies and the cartridge length trimmed to what you know is correct for your caliber and projectile. You never assume their virgin  brass is ready for you to reload. So, you've done those first procedures and maybe even weigh them to check that they are all similar in weight, and most likely they are. You determine the correct bushing, do comparative loads to determine which is really the correct size and once that's done, were ready to go, right?
 
"Not so fast there, Potrzbie". There's one thing that you still have not determined that is also something that many reloaders never consider. The case wall thickness of your neck. In virgin national match brass, you would expect it all to be identical, but is it really? Most, or all of it might be for that particular run of brass. But as with all machinery, when it's time to set up the new tooling that means that there has been wear somewhere in the system. Look at the first illustration and you will see what is commonly found in standard brass. National match brass "should" be perfectly concentric, but you will find it is not always so.  "So what? The bushing should take care of that". Actually it does not. It makes sure that the outside diameter in relation to the projectile is perfect but if the brass is thinner on one side than the other, does that affect accuracy? Absolutely!
 
The "perfect system" is going to be a coaxial press that aligns absolutely everything on the case head, from the bottom all the way to the tip of the projectile. If you expect everything to be concentric for maximum performance downrange then you must include the inside of the neck also being concentric to everything else right from the start. If it's not, a very slight bit of tension will happen when a coaxial press, or any other for that matter, cycles up to align everything. The case neck without Concentricty is going to actually apply more pressure to one side of the projectile than the other with its grip. The only way to change that is to true the case neck. It can be done one of two ways and the easiest is to remove brass from the outside of the case neck. When the entire cartridge is forced up into the die the case neck will also be aligned. 
 
That's far more of a PITA. Than doing the outside, and the fact is that doing the outside is enough. What the little digital meter will tell you is by turning the case neck that is contained within a pilot mandril will give you a reading of thinnest side of the neck because the meter sensor will be pushed out at the thickest point. The lesser reading is the one that you will use for adjusting the cutting tool.  From that point on, it's a very simple matter of using a 21st-century case neck truing system. I'm providing you with a couple pictures of the (in our opinion) combination that will take you to that point..
 
One is the Wilson case trimmer and the second is the mini lathe from 21st century. There's not a lot of dollars involved in this and if you're doing long-range precision shooting, this process is a must.
As I said, I'm not going to give you a tutorial here on how to use both of them because there are enough videos on YouTube to show you exactly how to do that without me explaining for the 20th time something others have already done. A complete tutorial will eventually end up in our "rifle info" section on the opening page of our website.
 
Photos coming soon

Question 28

28) Stocks and Receivers

Accepted Answer

New stock designs and innovations  are nothing to dismiss out of hand. The question would be if your issue rifle and load are capable of MOA to 1.5"MOA or better shooting,  is it worth the investment in an aluminum or synthetic stock and will it, in fact, improve your POI"?
=================================================
These supposed "sniper stocks" are snaky looking and would generate a lot of interest on the range. Would I want one? Sure! Why not? I have enough k31s to devote one to a novelty. Love to have one, but............ A cool "sniper" k31 stock does not turn an  inherently accurate rifle into a more accurate rifle just because of a stock design. Taking a random k31 with an issue stock is nowhere near a fair comparison. We're talking about an 85+ year old stock that's subject to improper storage, abuse, simple age change in the wood being compared to a stock that's precision manufactured today. 
Anyone remember Ernie Jimenez? He's an old net friend of mine who has set three Guiness world records with an issue k31, unaltered with an issue stock. First time, 1,000 yards. Second time 1,500 yards, and last fall.... 2,200 yards ALL with an unaltered issue k31.

Comparing targets produced with these new stocks to a questionable 80 year old issue stock is pure folly. Advertising hype. 
When I said I can "beat or equal those stocks for accuracy six ways from Sunday", I meant it. And I mean using an issue k31 stock that has no age or storage problems. That doesn't mean there are not very good aftermarket stocks. I'm just saying that a comparison  is simply advertising hype. 
 
If I wanted an aftermarket stock (very cool looking) that's been proven over and over with a long competition track record, it would be a Greunig & Elmiger stock. That's not to say there's anything wrong with those  stocks presented..... just don't buy one with the sole intent of changing your already very accurate issue k31 into some sort of "super accurate sniper" rifle..... it already is. 
 
Just so we have some reality into this.......... I've  always said that the very great majority of k31's work perfectly as designed with the preloaded stock, but the stock has to be an "as original issue" stable stock. Rifles from the armories purchased by dealers and imported into the US were stored perfectly upright in the racks. Sometimes improper storage by mustered out citizen soldiers and simple age will cause a stock to apply pressure in the wrong direction, and those rifles are the main reason for our using spacers and screw balance to accurize only our rifles with stock anomalies. We never, ever remove wood.
 
A "screw balance" is achieved by tightening the front lug area screw down dead tight. The tang screw is then tightened down next and backed off approximately half a turn. At this point you will need some absolutely "proven" rounds for your test. You're going to begin re-tightening the tang screw in 1/8 turn increments. Shoot five round groups and after each one tighten the tang screw another eighth increment. As you continue, you will see your groups slightly opening and closing. Once you find that area of a successful group, use a fine white pencil marker and mark one point on the screw and off the edge onto the tang.
 
Back your tang screw out and lightly coat the threads with the blue "Loctite". Insert and tighten the screw once again and once it's tight, back the screw head back out to align your two white points. Let it cure for 20 minutes and then try your groups again. For us a "proven load" is the result of 10 round groups fired on 20 different targets showing no flyers and no real appreciation of the actual group size. 
 
Another possible way is to change the lug shim, but once again, if the stock puts pressure left or right on the barrel (as shown by the dark coloration in the fore-end,, then that may not help much. When I said that every rifle in the armoury is set up with this accurizing technique, that doesn't mean that yours must be. 
Bear in mind that Bern issued those rifles with the fore-end "pre-loaded" with the stock lower fore-end with 7.5 pounds of pressure up against the barrel. Since those stocks were manufactured approximately 40 units at a time, the stocks on the far end of the drive system may not have been specifically the same inside dimensions as those closer to the drive system. That means to determine that 7.5 pounds of preloading the lower fore-end of the stock, the correct shim in the lugwell was not the identical thickness on all of the rifles. The variables were slight but this was for very careful to make sure that every single rifle shot as close to the same point of impact as possible. I'm not sure of availability of those OEM shims, but we keep four or five different thicknesses here for our own use. It's rare that we ever had to use a different one than the issue shim, but that depends on the individual rifle and how it's been stored all these years since manufacture and issue.
 
It's just like reloading. There are many ways to get to a great end result, not just my way. It works for us based on the stock/barrel relationship of our individual rifles.
Check your forestock. Is the blackened area only dead straight down on the raceway fore-end bottom, or does is show a slightly uneven area of dark wood to the left, right, off dead center  or the upper foregrip? And don't forget that the flanges on the front ring must be tight and solid. The stock should not be flopping around when fired.
I strongly disagree with the notion that my method accurizing these Swiss rifles is a mistake. It depends entirely on the  stock/rifle relationship, and in the past 20 years I've proven that many times over right here in the SP armoury.
Do what works best for you, and it might be that your k31's preloaded stock is perfectly fine.
https://static.wixstatic.com/media/2e1374_938863ed7cfd4725a663040a450e5d6e~mv2.jpg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/2e1374_f87a93cb620a4f2490d881f40818b118~mv2.jpg

Question 29

29) Coaxial Presses

Accepted Answer

So...... you have a machine screw made to fit exactly into two  copper plates the bottom plate threaded. The alignment looks perfect and you immediately feel a very minor resistance. You back it out an on closer inspection you can tell that the alignment is imperceptibly off....... not enough to really measure, but just enough that  you have to add a bit more torque to seat the screw home than you really should....... But it fits and it's tight.
 
You have a shell holder mounted at the base of your press. It's time for the resizing process. That press handle is heavy duty and the shell casing runs right up into the die, albeit with a bit of pressure you weren't quite expecting, but it goes home all the way and, upon extraction, it looks good. 
 
Now the seating die. Your projectile is either a boattail or a very slightly rounded edge on the base. It slides down into the case mouth, and you don't really detect any real resistance, or maybe the slightest bit, so......... What has just happened?
You've (without really feeling it) just forced your shell case to align itself between the shell holder with the die....... You just did the same thing with your projectile, so.......... now both the shell case and projectile are at 90 degrees to the shell holder. Looks good....... feels straight..... roll it on the reloading bench and there's really no detectable wobble, but once it's chambered and fired, are those minute stresses that forced the shell case and projectile truly in dead alignment and absolutely concentric to the bore? The body, for sure, but what about the case neck to the base? The neck to the projectile? With most all standard presses, absolute concentricity may or may not be absolutely true. Those minute differences only show up at real range, long distance. Everything goes into the equation when you reload. Sometimes they never show at all.
 
Suppose your case went up into a die that was "floating" and centered itself freely with no side  pressure from the shellholder? Suppose it also went up "into" the seating die and again...... centered itself on the floating seater? Now you have a case that is reloaded with no side thrust between a fixed shell holder and die. Perfect columnation with everything in dead alignment to the case body. Those are now three variables gone from your case prep.

Question 30

30) GP11 Explained

Accepted Answer

Shortly after I got out of the hospital, I saw a post about reverse engineering of the GP 11 cartridge. I couldn't address that then, but I will now.
We'll dispose of the projectile itself in short order. If you look at the diagram, you are going to have to have extremely deep pockets and access to manufacturing equipment to duplicate this projectile. I don't need to get into detail on this as you can see for yourself from the specification and the variables in this projectile, you're not going to duplicate it, so we go to the next best thing. The Berger VLD and the Hornady ELD. And for performance, the Berger is virtually a dead match for the GP 11 projectile performance wise, assuming that your cartridge prep has been correct. 
The Hornady ELD comes in a very close second. You will find the boat tail is approximately 1/64 inch shorter.
 
Now for the case. The GP11 case is considered by most, including the Swiss to be a national match caliber case. Unfortunately it is Berdan primed. The next best thing is, if you happen to be in possession of the Swiss national match box or primed cases, which are going to find both rare and expensive. Beyond the first 5000 that I brought into this country from RUAG, the balance were brought in by Graf & Sons when I passed the torch to them. After no more than two months, RUAG stopped the export of this brass because the Board of Directors determined that all of this boxer brass in the hands of American reloaders was going to slow the sales of the remaining GP11 still in Switzerland. It was an economical decision for them and unfortunate for us. From there, that brass went into production and Switzerland and turned into a number of different hunting loads with different projectiles all sold in Europe.
 
I find it highly unlikely that (at present) any American manufacturer will duplicate that brass. In all aspects it shakes out more true than Lapua, Norma or anyone else's brass made in our caliber not to mention the wall thickness and weight.

PRVI partisan has proven to be a decent brass for reloading, and if you can find Norma brass, it too is very good for reloading, however remember that Norma brass is very soft and will only stand being annealed so many times before you get a case mouth split. 
Crimping. This is also something that you're not going to match, but is not necessary and bolt action rifles unless they are high-power, Magnum rifles won't require it. The factory crimping involved three points closing in on the case mouth not with a die, but with a machine that did a 360° crimp from three points coming in around the case mouth.  I wish I could find a factory photo of that apparatus, but maybe Pete Ogden or Dale Ding can find one 
 
Suffice it to say that particular feature involves the all-important "neck tension". You're not going to duplicate that, at least not by that process. The closest you are going to come is if you use Reading competition dies and the correct sized collet. When we are introducing a new case to our own system, we order in three collet's. One that we think it is, one slightly larger and one smaller. We let the performance tell us which one were going to settle on.
 
All of that being said, your chances of actually reverse engineering for production of this this cartridge is as close to zero as it can be. For those of you who don't already know, the .284 brass works really well in the G11 rifles. With the K 31 however, you may get one in 10 cases that do not extract and eject first time because the case rim is a fair bit thinner than GP11 brass.

Question 31

31 Kern Scopes

Accepted Answer

The Kern 4x24 was originally produced in the 60s and 70s as part of a military contract for the Stgw57, with production ending in the late 1980s. In the early 1990's SIG began converting remaining factory stock of these scopes to work with the Stgw90 by producing a compatible mount. Originally manufactured exclusively for the Swiss Army, some of these scopes were left over at the factory, and able to be sold to the general public - these units were serial numbered 140176 to 140275 - with 20 units having been converted by SIG/Leica for the Stgw90 were serial numbered 140278-140297 and are known as the ZF90. 
 
Accessory wise GRD, produced the objective lens rubber protector, accessories case, duster brush, and buckskin. There has never been any official commercial packaging for this scope, however WEZ KUNSTSTOFFWERKE did produce a carry case for the scope up until the mid 1970s. The scope that I have is a slightly different story.
Eventually, there were 5 prototypes made of this scope. Each one had newer developments and options than the one before it. None of these 5 scopes showed up in the serial number ledgers kept in Bern......... but they did show up in a later "prototype" ledger.
All I have to do is find it among 18 years of emails from Frank Van Binendijk! LOL......... I'll try.
 
4 were archived and #5 was issued to a field soldier for normal use. I'm missing some of the history, but it was issued to a specific rifle and that number was recorded along with the soldier's name. He used it along with the rifle in shoots and military exercises until he retired. This soldier opted to keep the rifle, and the scope went with it................ so.......... MANY years pass.
 
This gent was married to a woman whose Father and Family owned a very large baking facility just across the border in France. The rifle was not supposed to go across that border, but it did. More years pass and this gentleman wanted Swiss Militaria and, of course, Frank Van Binnendijk was the man for just that. He offered to trade his 90PE to Frank, but Frank turned it down. Frank had plenty of those rifles already. They made a different trade and more time passes. 
 
He contacts Frank again, and this time he has a "scope" to trade. Frank had a number of the Kern 4x24 scopes, so he turns it down. The gent tells him it's not an "ordinary" Kern Scope. This piques Frank's interest so he asks for a serial mumber. Nope. it dosen't show in the register. Now Frank is more interested. He's sent a detailed photo of the scope, and within a week he finds out exactly what it is. #5 of the original prototypes and the one from which all production models are made!
 
Frank is as honest as the sky is blue, and he tells the gent that it's actually worth the equivalent of $1,700.00 US Dollars in Switzerland............... BUT......... in the USA?? LOL! You guessed it!....... Worth eight times that amount!  
Frank already knew about my having the #4 PE90 in the states, so when we Skype later that day I'm hopping up and down just waiting to say yes!........ and I did! That scope is now mated with the right, and perfect rifle for what it is, and for it's status.

Question 32

32 Load Data Testing

Accepted Answer

A group is not three rounds. I consider a great 3 round group as " a fortuitous group."
A group is a 5 round minimum.
 When we consider a particular set of load data as "proven", it means a 10 target minimum (typically 20 for us) with absolutely "repeatable" 5 round POI groups per target. That data is then assigned to that rifle by serial number in a small log book that each rifle here has.
 If that data works well with another 4 or 5 rifles, then it's logged into our main Data Book for k31s.
My "data" on the SRDC site is a fraction of a highly condensed series of many thousands of rounds of data testing over a 35 years +/- period of time. All that means is that the data presented worked as written for a small group of load testing rifles. Those rifles were selected long ago for their consistent, proven performance.
 ALL of the data was collected from rifles fired from a fixed "Accurite" firing device. Only the trigger finger touched the rifle at all, so the human equation was removed altogether.

Question 33

33) Meplats and their Importance

Accepted Answer

MEPLATS:
Longer range projectile prep.
If you are using hollowpoint projectiles in your reloading  and shooting reasonably long distances, Meplats's are something to which you should pay attention.
If you were to look very closely at your hollowpoint ammunition under a very good magnifying glass or a desk scope, you will notice that even in national match ammunition the meplats are not all the same.

On some they are like little mountain ranges with peaks and valleys. Others may be more smooth but not perfectly that being the same length all the way around.  Even Meplats that are inadvertently a little shorter than the rest are not going to give you an exact COAL. I am assuming that you are setting your seat depth based on the ogive and not simply a COAL. Remember, we're not talking about full metal jacket, but rather hollow points or soft nose projectiles.
 
Trimming and repointing will give you a uniform COAL because your trimmer will index on the Ogive of the projectile. 
Anything out to 200 we won't necessarily do this, but beyond that range we would.
This is our process. Your's may vary, but this has proven itself for us.

Projectile prep:
We only use Berger VLDs, but Sierra SMKs and Hornady ELD's work very well too. There are probably others as well, and if you have one that fits into this category that you like better, by all means use it.
 
Our method is to begin with meplat trimming. We use the Hoover. Buy the sort that indexes on the ogive, not the base of the bullet. That's going to be very important when you cross reference/compare actual seat depth from the ogive to COAL, cartridge to cartridge.
The photos will show our process.
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Question 34

34) Muzzle brakes, flash suppressors and compensators. What is the difference and why?"

Accepted Answer

There are many designs for flash suppressors from the basket type on a ZFK55, an AR type as the Nil-Flash or the AK type, also called the tri-compensator. A typical flash suppressor will disturb or direct the gas in such a way as to prevent the flash from igniting that gas out of the muzzle.

One of the most effective for this purpose can be found on the Swiss ZFK 55 rifle. This basket type of suppressor allows the gas to escape through a multitude of holes drilled into the suppressor itself.

Our own testing has shown that it has a very mild braking action, but not enough to qualify as a brake..
Flash may also be accomplished with the "silencer" which has a number of chambers that suppress both gas and sound emissions.
 
A true muzzle brake will keep the gas in close quarters and force it to emit out of spaced, angled "ports". The machined angle and number of these ports will depend on the caliber of the rifle. The angles will be anywhere from 10 to 30° providing a flat surface of that machined angle sufficient for the gas to pushed forward and be deflected to the rear through the port. The more surface contacted by the gas, the greater the forward pressure will be. All of this is accomplished when the projectile passes before the foremost series of ports and temporarily blocks gas escaping from the muzzle and forcing it into the ports and to the rear. 
 
The most effective of these brakes will be produced in two formats. One of them will be with thicker larger ports on the left and right side of the barrel aligning on the horizontal axis of the bore. The second type may be ported all the way around in a series of 2 to 3 rows of ports. There are many profiles for these muzzle brakes, and not all are 100% effective. It depends completely on the design, placement and angle of the ports themselves. If the brake is ported  all the way around and you are shooting prone and close to open dirt or dust, there will definitely be a "dust signature" directly under the barrel. Some brakes deliberately bypass the porting on the bottom of the brake to eliminate the possibility of a dust signature.
 
Compensators are often misnamed in place of the brake. A compensator will not have ports that are angled to the rear. They are most effective on large caliber and/4 selective fire machine guns. Most automatic rifles in tri-burst or full automatic are prone to climb up and to the left. A "compensator" does exactly that. It compensates for that tendency to climb and move left. The ports are going to be on the top and the left upper quadrant of the (so-named) "brake" itself. The escaping gas will push down and to the right in order to "compensate" for the rifle's inclination to climb up and to the left. If you've ever noticed the tri-compensator on an AK with its odd angled and wavy cut, you will  notice that escaping gas is directed forward and to the left of the rifle thereby accomplishing the same effect as one that is ported top and left.
 
As with most all things I have to say........  Little is cast in stone, and.......  Omnes viae Romam ducunt.
*All roads lead to Rome*

Question 35

35) The reality of Bore Maintenance

Accepted Answer

Many of you might blow this off as simplistic. There are a number rifles in the armoury, and this is the ONLY process we use.
Swiss K31 barrels are VERY expensive to replace, and the 1911 series and the zfk55 barrels? Forget it.

We've done only this for going on 10 years without one single failure to completely remove carbon and copper fouling.
We begin by stripping the chambers, throats and bore with Wipe Out. Its an ammonia free, water based bore cleaner that removes literally everything. Carbon, copper, any kind of fouling including Moly. We set the rifle horizontally in the bench holder, plug the breech end, insert the nozzle at the muzzle, let the foam expand till it bleeds back out the bore. Leave the Foam Type Wipe Out in the bore and throat overnight and then dry swab everything. NO BRUSHES!
 
The use of ANY bore brushes shortens barrel life........ yes, even Nylon brushes. A new replacement barrel for a k31 can cost you anywhere from $700 to $1,500 by the time it gets here from Switzerland.
 
 We do a follow-up inspection for any copper residue with a Hawekeye Pro Borescope. A completely clean and 100% copper free bore is essential for the hBN application.
A simple check with the Hawkeye Pro Borescope will tell you the microscopic truth.
If you have a severe carbon buildup in the chamber problem, Montana Extreme is the one we use with a nylon bristle brush to fit the chamber. Usually a .45 caliber with a spinning action.

If your rifle is to be stored for any real length of time, we use Lubriplate 930 on a cotton swab and pass it down the barrel. When it's taken out to shoot again, just pass a clean patch on a jag down the bore and you're ready.
This simple process pretty much left a ton of other cleaners, removers and brushes untouched on the shelves for a very long time now. No brush of any kind touches any bore in the armoury.  Dry patches on a jag, and that's it.

Question 36

36) Case Truing

Accepted Answer

Let's consider that we are going to check a box of 100 brand-new cases from Norma, Lapua and Hornady, all of them listed as "national match brass". All things being equal, those cases should be absolutely identical inside and out, but are they factually identical? All cases, new or not should be sized on your own dies and the cartridge length trimmed to what you know is correct for your caliber and projectile. You never assume their virgin  brass is ready for you to reload. So, you've done those first procedures and maybe even weigh them to check that they are all similar in weight, and most likely they are. You determine the correct bushing, do comparative loads to determine which is really the correct size and once that's done, were ready to go, right?
 
"Not so fast there, Potrzbie". There's one thing that you still have not determined that is also something that many reloaders never consider. The case wall thickness of your neck. In virgin national match brass, you would expect it all to be identical, but is it really? Most, or all of it might be for that particular run of brass. But as with all machinery, when it's time to set up the new tooling that means that there has been wear somewhere in the system. Look at the first illustration and you will see what is commonly found in standard brass. National match brass "should" be perfectly concentric, but you will find it is not always so.  "So what? The bushing should take care of that".
 
Actually it does not. It makes sure that the outside diameter in relation to the projectile is perfect but if the brass is thinner on one side than the other, does that affect accuracy? Absolutely!
The "perfect system" is going to be a coaxial press that aligns absolutely everything on the case head, from the bottom all the way to the tip of the projectile. If you expect everything to be concentric for maximum performance downrange then you must include the inside of the neck also being concentric to everything else right from the start. If it's not, a very slight bit of tension will happen when a coaxial press, or any other for that matter, cycles up to align everything.

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The case neck without Concentricty is going to actually apply more pressure to one side of the projectile than the other with its grip. The only way to change that is to true the case neck. It can be done one of two ways and the easiest is to remove brass from the outside of the case neck. When the entire cartridge is forced up into the die the case neck will also be aligned, but the perfect way is to trim brass from the inside of the case neck.
 
That's far more of a PITA. Than doing the outside, and the fact is that doing the outside is enough. What the little digital meter will tell you is by turning the case neck that is contained within a pilot mandril will give you a reading of thinnest side of the neck because the meter sensor will be pushed out at the thickest point. The lesser reading is the one that you will use for adjusting the cutting tool.  From that point on, it's a very simple matter of using a 21st-century case neck truing system. I'm providing you with a couple pictures of the (in our opinion) combination that will take you to that point.. One is the Wilson case trimmer and the second is the mini lathe from 21st century. There's not a lot of dollars involved in this and if you're doing long-range precision shooting, this process is a must.
 
As I said, I'm not going to give you a tutorial here on how to use both of them because there are enough videos on YouTube to show you exactly how to do that without me explaining for the 20th time something others have already done. A complete tutorial will eventually end up in our "rifle info" section on the opening page of our website.

Question 37

37) Accurizing and Stock Problem Trouble Shooting

Accepted Answer

This archive does not concern Swiss rifles with stocks that are in "as issued" condition. This is meant to address rifles that will not hold a repeatable point of impact group due to a few possible problems.

I've invested quite a bit of time in arriving at a rather simple conclusion I had always known, from experience, to be true. "Do not interfere with the factory seated barrel". That simple. Of course, none of us want to remove that classic stock and fore grip from the Schmidt Rubins/k31's. so to begin correction on a stock having accuracy problems, I did the next best thing. I relieved all reasonable stress contact from the barrel, but only as a diagnostic beginning point.

I did this by designing a "spacer" meant to go between the flanges of both barrel bands. This simple spacer relieved the barrel of any meaningful contact with the stock. If the spacers are used correctly, the fore stock will feel "loose" at the barrel band. Of course, one could rout out the raceway to relieve the barrel, but I would never remove any wood from the stock. Allowing the barrel to vibrate uninhibited definitely tightened up my groups with a problem stock. I had, of course, used a load capable of moa for these tests. This also meant that I could not use the sling in any kind of a bracing action. That would negate my efforts. Now for the second discovery. I found that "balancing" the tang screw against the receiver screw also had an effect on accuracy. Bear in mind that we are now in an area not intended by the factory, and we will work on this in order to find a solution for point of impact changing any rifle stock that is now not "as issued".

To determine spacer width requirements, loosen the screw on the front band until the band retainer will compress and release freely. The space you see between the flanges approximates the thickness required for the spacer. With the spacer(s) installed, the front to the stock should have a bit of "play", so that you can see/feel it move when you wiggle it. The rear band should also NOT grip the stock tightly. It, too should have a bit of play. This will leave the barrel relatively uninhibited by the stock. Also remember not to use the sling to "brace" the rifle. That tension will put pressure against the barrel too. Use the sling just to "steady" the rifle without undue pressure.

Bear in mind that the procedure involving spacers is not an end all or cure all for accuracy. That procedure only applies to those rifles whose stocks are not "As issued" and not perfectly straight and stable. It is not intended for stocks that are straight and preloaded from the factory with no changing points of impact of your groups.

Use of the sling is a usual firing procedure for Swiss soldiers and many of the public. If your rifle is "as issued" and you are following the correct procedures for bracing with your sling when firing, and you do it exactly the same every single time then there is indeed a good reason to use the sling, however if you are having accuracy problems in any way shape or form, discontinue use of the sling until you've solved your problem. Personally, I have never gone back to the use of the sling.

After installing the spacers, I begin by loosening both screws. I coat the rear screw with LocTite. I then tighten the receiver screw dead tight. I turn the tang screw down tight and back it our 3/4 of a turn or a little better. You'll need to have around 30 dependable loads ready for this test. Definitely do it from a bench rest, and if you have open sights, use a clearly defined target at no more than 75 yards.

Fire a group of 3 or 4 rounds. Tighten the tang screw in 1/8 turn increments, repeating the process and, using a new target for each run, note how the groups will spread or tighten to minor degrees. These differences will make themselves manifest at range. Once you find the "sweet spot" with the tang screw, allow it to sit while the LocTite cures.

This procedure will be all the more apparent with scoped rifles, but the Diopter and Willaims will also show clearly what a difference can be made. Emails from subscribers to this method have proven to me that this method definitely works. Why "fix something that ain't broke"?......... because mine have the capability to outperform the ones that "ain't broke". The rest is up to the shooter.

The zfk55 barrel band does NOT compress the stock tightly against the barrel.  This, and the fact that the bipod is attached to the receiver, tells me that someone in the design division felt that the barrel on this particular rifle should be uninhibited.

Just so we have some reality into this.......... I've always said that majority of k31's work very well with the preloaded stock, but the stock has to be an "as original issued" stable stock. Sometimes improper storage and simple age will cause a stock to apply pressure in the wrong direction, and those rifles are the main reason for our using spacers and screw balance to accurize our rifles. We never, ever remove wood.

Another possible way is to change the lug shim, but once again, if the stock puts pressure left or right on the barrel, then that may not help much. When I said that  every rifle in the armoury with a proven stock problem is set up with this accurizing technique, that doesn't mean that yours must be.  It's just like reloading. There are many ways to get to a great end result, not just this way. It works for us based on the stock/barrel relationship of our individual rifles.

If you are shooting reloads, that combination of case prep, powder charge and projectile must be a "proven" combination that does shoot at least 1.75 moa.
Your best testing for the entire process is using GP11 factory ammunition.

Question 38

38) Muzzle Brakes and Muzzle Dampers evolution.

Accepted Answer

I'm almost positive I posted this information before, but somehow I think it may had to do with muzzle brakes. This one will be about dampers, the threaded type and the (possible) clamp-on type.

The one presented in the photo was not an intentional try for a clamp-on damper. We have a number of clamp on brakes that were not ported due to a rookie journeyman's error in not following the production sheet.

I "think" the whole thing came up for discussion when Pete Ogden mentioned something about it, and got me thinking. (Not an easy thing to do these days) There is a reason that we had not developed a clamp on type damper in the past.

That had to do with the fact that a threaded damper was perfectly concentric to the bore and the opening was exactly the same as the bore. All that means is that trapped gas expulsion would be even all the way around the base diameter of the projectile exiting the damper bore. Any (even minor) difference would affect the trajectory of the bullet. That was something we absolutely did not want.

"Every K31 is identical to the one manufactured before it, and the one manufactured after it". Hold on there, Potrzbie! Probably in a fair number of them, but not all. If you have the proper equipment, you can measure the inside diameter of a bore at the muzzle, (grooves) and then measure the outside diameter of that area of the barrel at the muzzle. Appears to be perfectly concentric? Maybe, but even the smallest and nearly undetectable differences will make themselves manifest at the base of the projectile exiting the bore of any sort of attachment, including a damper, downrange. The further the distance, the more pronounced..

We determined that that difference can be almost indiscernible and undetectable but will show itself in groups on your target.... That is assuming that your load data is giving you a group from your rifle without a damper that is a reasonably typical and tight, proven load. In a clamp-on situation, the bore of the damper is going to align itself with the outside diameter of your barrel, not the bore. I'm not saying that yours would not be dead true, but not in every rifle. We had proven that to ourselves some 20 years ago.

In the case of the threaded muzzle brake as opposed to the clamp on muzzle brake, the clamp on variety is 20 thousandths larger inside diameter of the bore of that device. We found the 20 thousandths inside diameter increase of the device itself was enough to leave the projectile unaffected and stabilized after it exited the bore of the rifle.  In the case of the threaded type, it was truly parallel to the axis of the bore because the threading was done with a bore pilot that we provided with our kit. The same is the case of the threaded muzzle brake. That device has an inside diameter exactly the same as the rifle.

Because there are no ports in the device pictured, all of the gases are going to be behind that projectile with no relief whatsoever as is provided by porting. It would require a number of prototypes and  field testing to determine what the bore diameter on the clamp on damper should be so as not to affect point of impact downrange.

So, all of that hot air above comes down to the simple question and answer.
Why not make an adjustable tuner/damper for the K 31. Simple answer, there is not enough space between the muzzle crown and the face of the front sight to truly make it usable. That one is a question I get all the time.
In the case of this clamp on muzzle damper, he would take a number of prototypes to achieve what we did with the threaded damper. We actually calibrated the whole thing with all of its dimensions based on the performance of a 175gr projectille.

The manufacturing process on the clamp on muzzle brake is rather complex, IE: number of ports, positioning of ports and the angle of the ports, and to make separate prototypes of a damper searching for the correct diameter, length and muzzle opening on that device would not be cost-effective unless I knew that the sales and demand for  the whole thing would end up compensating us for everything we put into it.

This unit as pictured is, admittedly a shot in the dark. The proofing would be from the 168 grain projectile all the way to the 180gr projectile. If it proves itself.... Great. If it doesn't, we're going to have to think long and hard about developing a clamp-on damper in this profile. 
=======================================

The above was written  some time ago, and there is an up date. The units that were manufactured as clamp on muzzle brakes were inadvertently sent to the bluer before the porting took place. That was the gist of that paragraph up above, but in the meantime, after sending four of them out to be field-tested with users in various parts of the US including Pete Ogden, we are astounded that they actually worked.

It was sheer blind, dumb luck that they did work. I truly did not expect them to be effective at all. Because I didn't go through any extensive redesign or field testing, it truly was a shot in the dark. Since all five users proved that they do work as a successful clamp on harmonics dampening device, we began producing them.

We did have to do a quick two group test here at the SP field test range just to satisfy me that what I was getting from these folks was enough of an effective harmonics control device to produce under our name.
Bear in mind that the dampers on an issue K31 and stock may not function the same on an unsupported, or free-floating barrel. Without testing that here, I have no idea one way the other.
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Damper

Brake
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Question 39

39) Understanding the relationship of your barrel to your stock for accuracy.

Accepted Answer

We must begin with an "as issued" rifle whose raceway in the stock is true to the axis of the barrel with no side pressures whatsoever.

K 31's are famous for shooting to the same POI (point of impact) from one rifle to another no matter how far apart they are in manufacture.
This is accomplished with a small wedge (sometimes called a shim) in the lugwell of the rifle,  that part of the stock that receives the square lug on the bottom of the barrel assembly.

There is a nominal 7.5 pounds of up pressure between the lower fore stock and the barrel that is a control measure developed by designers at the factory.
That means there are different thicknesses of these wedges/shims that can control the harmonics of the barrel. These harmonics are vibrations that occur naturally when the rifle is fired, and they travel down the entire length of the barrel.

This is true of all rifles, heavy barreled or not. Those harmonics are essentially like a "whipping" action. The reason for this is that stocks are made of wood and because they are manufactured great numbers at one time, those stocks being produced at the far end of geared production line will most likely not be exactly the same as the first one in that long production line. By "production line I mean the literal assembly of the machine doing all the stock forming.

When that system turns on, the chips are flying so heavy that it looks like an entire curtain is fallen down across those stocks and it's hard to actually see for a few moments.  
 I can't find that video that I saw and saved about that operation, but you would be astounded at how fast those stocks are made. So, back to the point of this whole thing.

The control of those harmonics are governed by weight or pressure of the lower fore stock up against the barrel. Harmonics are also controlled by a damper that is made to the correct specifications of the barrel and the weight of the projectile.
Because of those differences, the factory was able to control those harmonics by correcting the up pressure against the end of the barrel by the thickness of the wedge in the lug well. When the rifle was proof tested, if they did not shoot to the correct expected point of impact, then the thickness of that wedge was changed until it met the required 7.5 pounds. That is exactly how they were able to make a very close similarity in POI one rifle to another. Most of the time they were identical.

I would like to elaborate just a bit on stock production at WFB during the years of manufacture.
It has been easily 25 years ago that I saw a video showing exactly that. I should have saved that video but I found that some 10 or 12 years later, it had disappeared from YouTube.
As I remember, the machinery was set up to do 50 stocks at a time with the stocks being in a horizontal line. As is usual, I can't remember exactly but I believe that there were two or possibly three tiers.

The main drive of all of the machinery was on the left side as you faced the stocks. When they "threw the switch", the chips were so dense that you actually could not see either the stocks or machinery, and the noise was intense.

There are a number of things I noted about the entire process, but the one thing that struck me is that because the drive was on the left, each successive stock to the right ended up with a nearly unmeasurable difference of those being closest to the main drive, but down at the very end there was a slight, measurable difference in all aspect. I suspect that was probably because at the time I saw it, the system was not a gear drive, but a chain drive.

The Swiss engineers were genius in the aspect of design and fit and function of all the rifles made at WFB. One of those aspects was that when the rifle was issued to a soldier, it should be shooting very close to the same point of impact as a rifle made the following month, year or anytime in the ensuing years since the beginning. That was the beauty of the Swiss k31s. Because of very minor differences in stock manufacture, the capability of those rifles to shoot to the same point of impact was not realistic, and the method developed to control vertical up pressure, whether it be too little or too much to me the 7.5 performance pressures determined by the designers, those metal tabs in the lugwell were utilized for exactly that purpose.

The thicker the shim, the less up-pressure on the barrel. The thinner the shim, the more of pressure there is on the barrel. That would also be the reason for varying thickness in those shims to account for any differences found when the receivers and barrels were dropped into the stock. That little hole in the shim allows you to use a tool to pop it out.

We have done exactly that same thing here and it's the first thing we check when a rifle comes to us that is not shooting very closely to the same point of impact. There can be other reasons for sure, but that shim and up pressure are the first things that we would suspect primarily because of the age of the stocks and the potential for wood change.

Improper storage, storage in temperature extremes and sometimes simple age will cause that small amount of relaxing of the wood that could affect the factory "calibrating" with that up pressure. 
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Question 40

40) How do I properly care for my barrel?

Accepted Answer

When we opened the Swiss Products Helpline directly into Lost Prairie about three and 1/2 years ago, the kinds of calls that I have received are a bit more diverse than I expected, but I thoroughly enjoy them. I've gotten to know a fair number of folks just on that helpline.

Even though it was opened specifically for answering questions about Swiss products, it seems like almost 50% of the calls are about rifle care and reloading. Even though everything is in the archives on our website, and unless you are an avid reader, I think that the sheer volume of it sometimes makes a rather dry reading and not easy to find exactly what you're looking for in the reloading explanations, and that is what has prompted this post today.

What I would like to cover right now is the reloading data on the website and the apparent contradiction with bore maintenance with the resultant dependence on cartridge preparation.

The paradox comes when we talk about the expected results of the load data in our "rifle info" section and the reality of your using that data. There is an oft overlooked disclaimer at the top explaining that the results shown with those specific powders and projectiles are based on the case prep being done exactly as we describe it under that subject line. Without that case prep, the data is not quite meaningless, but far less accurate/effective when used by itself.

The case preparation part of it aside, the second thing we look at is the barrel itself. If you have a Rockwell hardness testing system in your shop, you can make your own determination about exactly how hard those K 31 barrels are.

I know you're going to find a RH factor of at least 32, and that's an extremely hard barrel. Receiver itself is case hardened to just about the same tensile strength. Those two things are the reason why these rifles come to you with lands and grooves looking like they were cold hammer forged just yesterday, so what's all the big hooraw about barrel maintenance?

There are two schools of thought on most barrels, but in my opinion they may not specifically apply to a Swiss barrel. There are those that believe you should clean the barrel often,  rarely or some even say not at all to remove the coppering. We remove all of the copping and then we use our process of hexagonal boron nitride to slurry seal the barrel. There's no point in getting into that process here as most of you will never do it, but the reason for it is not to extend the k31's barrel life as most would expect.

You are hardly going to change the barrel life of a K 31 because of the very resistance to wear that is an inherent part of Swiss barrels. The reason that we use hBN in a barrel is to remove the SD factor, (Standard Deviation) and if you're using ICP's (impact coated projectiles), your individual groups with different load data will be equalized as far as your muzzle velocity is concerned. In other words, the changing resistance of copper build-up will not be a variable in your load data testing. Registered Velocities remain true, one round to the next.

So, all of that aside, which ever advertising hype on bore cleaners that you elect to use will be just as good from one to the other in a K31 barrel. There are a plethora of these bore cleaners that act differently on other barrel types, but your Swiss barrel is not going to care one way or the other which one you use. As long as it removes coppering, for us, that's all that counts.

There are a number of chamber and throat cleaners such as Montana Extreme which is an excellent carbon remover, but there are also many others.

Do you remember what the armory and the Swiss soldier used for barrel care and how and when it was used? It certainly didn't involve advertising hype.

Question 41

41) Stock Refinishing vs Stock Restoration

Accepted Answer

Restoration vs refinishing,... There is a definite difference. If you are a purist, you will probably opt for restoration unless you are an extreme purist, in which case you will opt for doing nothing whatsoever. The school of thought of most purists is that the rifle has a personal history most often pertaining to a given war.

In this case, we're talking about a rifle that was manufactured for the Swiss military, and of this type, beginning in the early 1900s. Considering that all of these rifles were made "in anticipation or defense in a war" but were factually never used in a war other than a few very minor exceptions, we're not talking about wartime use in actions that meant anything to anyone.

If you have a number of these different models of Swiss rifles as I do, you're in position to do both restoration and or refinishing. I personally do not want to see any rifle in the armory in a beat up or rough condition no matter what the circumstance, so I would at the very least do a restoration and in many cases, complete refinishing.

The refinishing aspect is simple. Removal of dings and dents, professional repair of cracks, complete sanding below the surface of any dings or dents that could not be completely brought to the surface with a directional steaming unit. Fine sanding, leaving sharp corners and edges as the stock was manufactured and then finishing with your surface treatment of choice. That can range from anything involving the original treatment from Bern to the use of things like Tru-Oil, Tung oil or like products.

The following is from one of my archives and broken down into simplicity:
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Walnut:
Do not immerse the stock or get the interior wood overly wet.
Rub Scrub stock hard and quickly with warm soapy and a scrub brush.
Rub dry vigorously with a Terry towel or burlap and let stand overnight.
Use the directional steamer to raise the dents.

A) Use 000 Copper Wool to smooth the surfaces.
Hand rub with raw linseed oil until you have a warm smooth finish.
This may take a number of coats.

B) Sanding is less preferable unless you're going for a new rifle appearance.
Sand smooth but use a wood block taking care not to round any of the
edges or the fingergrooves. Do not overly sand the Cartouche.
Rub vigorously with a rough Terry towel or burlap.
Apply a coat of Tung Oil with a soft cloth and let dry. Lightly rub down
with 000 Copper Wool. Repeat this process 6 to 10 times until you have
a deep, warm glow to the wood. If you want a glossier finish, don't Copper
Wool the last coat. I prefer the satin look, so I do use it on the final coat.
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Beech:

The original is Shellaq. Use alcohol to remove the old Shellaq
Do not immerse the stock or get the interior wood overly wet.
Rub Scrub stock hard and quickly with warm soapy water and a scrub brush.
Rub dry immediately with a Terry towel or burlap and let stand overnight.
Use 000 Copper wool to finish the surface.
Use the directional steamer to raise the dents.
Use 000 Copper wool to finish the surface.
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There are a few other formulas that may be used for a restoration of the these stocks.
I will post all three of them at a later time.

Restoration is far more time-consuming and actually a simpler process.
First and foremost is dropping the stock from the barrel and receiver. The only process you can use that will leave the stock essentially as it was involves the directional steamer (not an iron and a wet towel). This steamer when used judiciously will raise very deep dents however, if the dents have actually broken the surface of the wood they will come back to the surface but leave that edge showing. Some gouges may be successfully treated with a directional steamer but most will not.

Wood that is fibrous and/or rough from improper storage may be treated with either a heavy burlap rag or a Scotch Brite pad. The fine Scotch Brite pad will remove little or no wood whatsoever but does have the same effect of using a heavy burlap cloth but works a little quicker. The end result should be an effort to bring the surface would back to a semblance of being smooth with the dirt and grime of use being removed.

As for the metal, if there is pitting and or rust anywhere on the barrel or the receiver, logically this must be removed. Rust adds nothing to being original and if unchecked, will continue to spread.
So what do I use?

We are either going to use a fine 000 Copper wool or, my preferred is the fine Scotch Brite pad. Both the fine copper wool and the Scotch Brite pad will get down into the bottom of the pitting and remove the rust. It will not remove bluing unless you go crazy with it, so using either of these should involve the entire barrel and not just isolated spots. If you do it that way, the effect will be an overall effect that visually should not bother you.

There are a tremendous number of new products of which I'm not familiar at all for removing any rust inside your bore. I've done enough reading on these new products to know that most of them are very effective, but the only one that I have ever used and am familiar with is Naval Jelly, a specific for removal of rust on steel. For the throat and chamber the one I am familiar with is called Montana Extreme. It works extremely well, but some of these new products may outperform it, I don't know.

Obviously, the intent is to bring the entire rifle back a nearly possible to its issue condition without changing the surface history of the rifle. If done correctly, it does look great and more than that, it feels better. I happen to believe in refurbishing as I can't stand to say rifle and the rack this and presenting it at its best. Your feelings about this, your theories and possible better approaches are all dependent on what makes you feel better about your rifle, and remember.... "Omnes viae Romam ducunt."

Question 42

# 42 The Recreational Shooter

Accepted Answer

This is intended to be a "refresher" for some, and hopefully a help to all of the new followers we have had join us over the past number of months that probably have not seen this. =================================
Reloading for the Recreational Swiss rifle shooter.

The following is based on the assumption that you have already learned basic reloading techniques. If that is not the case then please go to #6) in the "rifle info" section on the opening page of the Swiss Products website.

In this text, I will use two reloader designations:
RR= Recreational Reloader
PR= Precision Reloader
1etc.= That section pertaining to the current subject for Precision Reloading and Recreational Reloading if necessary.
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Ballistic coefficients.
This may be of only passing interest to the RR, but for the PR, an investment in a manual will be definitely advantageous. There are more than enough topics on the open Internet to research the importance and the meanings of the BCs for your chosen projectiles.
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Projectiles for our purposes.
I will only recommend a small range for the purpose of this archive. Many of you will already have your favorite projectile profiles and weights, but for the time being, we will use these.
The optimum will be the 175gr projectile. You may include the 168, the 174, 175, to the 180gr projectiles. Your powder charge will obviously vary depending on weight and posted muzzle velocity in your manual. We recommend the Sierra manual.

For our purposes in this missive, we will consider the Sierra Match King. Any of the VLD (very low drag) or the ELD (extra low drag) or the like will work fine. If you have a projectile profile that's been performing well for you, use that.
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Powders.
There are a wide range of successful powders for our particular cartridge. Our preference here is  definitely the RELODER 17 (RE17) because it performs as being an exact duplication of the original GP11 powder found in that cartridge. The RE series of powders all come from the same munitions house in Switzerland as the GP11 powder.

The advantage for us is that, among a very few others, the RE17 maintains its performance across a broad spectrum of temperatures. This may seem a minor point, but that depends where you live. Here we have gone as low as 56 below zero this year up to 101 in the summers.
 
The old "go to" powders for this cartridge have historically been 4064 and 3031. Both work well, as do a number of others. You will have to make a decision based on range performance. Referencing a" burn rate chart" will also help you stay within the range of the 3031.
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Brass.
We consider this the most important part of your completed cartridge. The requirements for the RR and the PR are not that far apart. Two things are critical. Your neck tension, which is controlled by a bushing in your sizing die, and the trim to length, or TTL required for our particular cartridge.

That TTL being uniform and repeated with every single cartridge case is very important. That will control how much of the carrying part of the projectile will be held by the case neck and the "dwell time" in the barrel.. Neck tension will control the release of the projectile upon firing with the purpose of both being to reduce your SD, or "standard deviation" to as low a number possible. It's important that the neck tension be identical from case to case. You will want to begin with a neck bushing that sizes the neck so that it is .003″ less than the loaded outside diameter with bullet in place.

Bear in mind that different case manufacturers may have a case neck wall thickness different than another manufacturer and may require a different size bushing. For beginning with any case, we usually buy three bushings. One as described above, one that is .001 less, and one that is 00.1 over. 
If you are reloading for a number of different cartridges and different calibers, that could get a little pricey, but we're talking about just our cartridge. Bear in mind that when projectile seating, a boat tail projectile will be the easiest. Once sized with a bushing, a flat based projectile will be more difficult to seat.

I consider a chronograph important for both the RR and the PR shooter. If you fired 10 rounds, your chronograph will give you a muzzle velocity of every round. Taking the total, divided by the number of rounds fired will give you your standard deviation. The closer together those numbers are translates into a much tighter group downrange on your target.
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Projectile and Case weighing.

There are overlapping explanations in the various chapters numbers in the "rifle info" section.
Weighing projectiles will only help if you are using a match, hollowpoint boat tail projectile. If they are not match projectiles you may want to weigh them anyway just to discern if there is a wide difference in weight from one to the other. It would be interesting for you to separate them by weights, but if you are using match projectile hollowpoints, you would then get into the "trimming of the Meplats section. #33)

The same will apply for weighing your cartridge cases. Assuming that you have performed the very important trim to length TTL process, weighing and separating your cases by weight will help you a lot whether you are shooting at 100 or 500 yards. It seems a small thing if you're not doing precision reloading, but it can definitely make a difference for you. Once again, make sure your brass is all of one manufacturer. Do not mix PPU with Norma or Ruag etc.

The reload data itself will be up to you. Our section #10) will help give you a start. Pay particular attention to the RE17 notes. If you are going to use any of the posted load data in section #9), please note the caveat. If you have not followed the brass prep to the letter, you will likely not get the results posted behind each combination of powder and projectiles.

The following is a section that I would urge you to read whether you are a RR or a PR. #27)
A bench rest shooter would add quite a bit to this whole thing, but then they are also notorious for not particularly agreeing with each other. I consider that a world apart from what we are attempting to do.
I still have to add photos to the section on "case neck truing", but that will only apply to the PR shooter's. I don't consider that the projectile hollowpoint trimming, re-pointing and neck truing equipment are essential for the RR.

I do feel, however, that case and projectile weighing is something that the RL should definitely try, just to see what affect it has on your groups. You will need to make a control group, and I suggest that you use no less than five cartridges for each of your comparisons.
Good shooting, and remember that the SP Helpline is always there should you need it.

Question 43

43 Tales of Ruag Brass

Accepted Answer

RUAG  Swiss National Match boxer brass......... the finest on the planet.
Ok. So here's how the American reloading part of it began for the k31, the G11's, the zfk55 and the Pe57. I don't remember the year, sometime in the 90's  but a lot of shooters on the various Swiss Forums and elsewhere will remember better than I do because they bought it from me and my partner Jim .......... My memory has gotten terrible......We brought in some 10,000 Ruag Swiss National Match Brass, but before that, I called Grafs and three other outfits asking if they'd like to front this buy and handle it themselves. "What? 7.5x what? For what rifles? never heard of them" (that was Jeff Knowles speaking, the Grafs plant manager and a great gentleman who eventually became a friend of mine) ..... So....... we brought it in. I advertised it on my home board, Swiss rifles.com and it disappeared faster than I could have imagined.

Within two weeks the whole bunch was gone. I called Grafs again. "What?!? You sold it all already?" Yep...... and I'm about to bring in another 10,000 of the same brass, and another 15,000 as soon as that's gone. I expect about a month. "Wait, wait wait! Do you want us to handle that?" (heh)

I put them in direct touch with the Ruag sales manager in Bern, and......... that's how it all began for US reloaders. I have an awful lot of Norma brass here, but if you really do a lot of reloading, you already know how soft Norma brass is.

I can't remember how much RUAG brass we have, but if you anneal every 5 cycles, you're going to be working on that first 200 brass for an awfully long time. I have yet to have any RUAG brass fail on me, and you can guess how many rounds I've sent down range here over the past 18 or 20 years since we did that first import............

That incredible boxer brass was cut off for export maybe 10 years ago when RUAG began their Commercial Loads for sales to Europe.  
Can't remember for sure , but that's when Grafs began working with PRVI Partisan for brass and eventually the loaded cartridges, and our own 18 year association with Graf's and Brownell's began.

The real reason for RUAG discontinuing the import of that beautiful Swiss national match boxer brass?
Think about it. If you were enjoying the sales of GP11 ammunition into the US, why would you diminish that flow by supplying fully reloadable boxer brass to US consumers? That decision was pure marketing strategy, and it actually does make sense if you are the manufacturer.

For those of you who bought the early PPU brass from Grafs  you will note that the Graf & Sons name is head stamped on that brass. The next few shipments of the new loaded cartridges from PPU also had Graf's head stamp, but within a short period of time that changed and PPU began putting their own name on the loaded cartridges and packaging..

Now the last reserves run of GP11 in 1995 are nearing an end, but RUAG began a new run four or five years ago. It's still that great Swiss National Match brass and still labeled GP11, but it's also still Berdan primed. The wax ring is gone since log term storage is no longer necessary, and the crimp is different. The last firearm in the Swiss Army requiring the crimp is the MG52, and that will  soon be replaced by the FN Minimi, so........ no crimp is really required for the 7.5x55 caliber brass as concerns us reloaders.